Stone Tool Making

by Eric Heline

Here's a refresher for stone knappers and those of you who would like to get away from blown glass and begin to make some real works of art with flint, obsidian or other natural materials.
To begin with, determine a workable material by looking for conchoidal fracturing. This means the material will fracture in an arc, forming a dished (or domed) surface. Stones which fracture in straight line, or angular planes, do not work as well and should be avoided to start with.
One of the best overall liths to work with is obsidian, in terms of ease of flaking, sharpness (the sharpest), and great beauty. Obsidian comes in a wide variety of colors: black is the commonest, sometimes translucent, ("Apache tears" are obsidian-pebbles, polished by sand, wind and water). Red and black, or "mahogany", is also fairly common.
Other varieties include grey (usually opaque) which tends to a bit harder to work with. Snowflake, which is black with white "snowflake" inclusions, tends to present problems with getting a proper edge, as the more crystalline nature of the inclusions, they will flake or fracture differently (almost crumble) from the surrounding black matrix of the obsidian proper.
Most varieties of obsidian can be purchased from rock shops in large enough pieces or cores to get good blanks from. Since they are sold as lapidary material, they are generally "sound" rocks.
Another excellent material is jasper which come sin a wide variety of colors, combinations of colors, and hardnesses. It also has a glassy look, like obsidian, but is not translucent. Don't confuse picture jasper with picture stone. Picture stone is actually a sandstone, and will not have a glassy, polished look to it when in an unworked, rough state.
Flint and chert, of course are the two most widely used materials of the native Americans. They are basically of the same mineral composition, being mostly fine grained quartz, the microscopic quartz crystals cemented together by a matrix of "impurities". There are many varieties and colors of both, flint being primarily black, translucent sometimes, or grey. Chert is used to describe tan or white material. Chert will also have brown, yellow, red, or blue colors too, the colors derived from other minerals within the matrix.
Flint and chert are very hard sedimentary rocks, and often need to be heat treated before they can be worked. Heat treating is a rather involved process, though simple enough to do. A good book which covers all the elements of flint and chert and the heat treating of them is The Art of Flint Knapping, by D. C. Waldorf.

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Making the Tools
Step 1 - Direct Percussion

Step one is to get blanks off from the core.The first method is by direct percussion: striking the edge of the core with a hammerstone (granite makes a good hammerstone) or a baton of deer antler. Remember! A glancing blow to the edge. A direct blow will simply shatter the core. With glassy-type rocks (obsidians) a very indirect glancing blow is used. With the harder materials (jaspers, cherts and flints), a more direct, though still glancing blow is needed.
Step 2 -- Indirect percussionIndirect percussion, using an antler punch, now removes any unwanted knobs or high spots on the blanks. An anvil or work surface is needed -- either a flat piece of hardwood or a large rock. The blank is placed on the anvil and held down with one hand, leaving the thumb and forefinger to hold the punch to the area to be removed, and striking the end of the punch with the hammerstone.
Step 3 -- Percussion FlakingPercussion flaking is now employed to thin the blank down. Holding the blank on the anvil, the antler punch is placed on the edge of the blank or along one side of any "squared" edge, then striking the punch with the hammerstone, peeling large flakes off across the face of the blank.
Step 4 -- CrumblingCrumbling now achieves the basic shape of the tool to be fashioned. Placing the blank on the anvil, or now in the hand mitt, flat sides down, with a large pointed antler tine held at a 90-degree angle to the edge desired, press down with a rolling twist and crumble the edge away, working along the edge to get the basic shape.
Step 5 -- AbradingAbrade (or grind) the edge (held at a 900 angle) upon a piece of hard sandstone or other rock to get an even working surface, smoothing out the tough spots from the crumbling process.
Step 6 -- Pressure FlakingNext, pressure flaking begins the actual process of producing an edge on the shaped blank. Holding the lank in the handmitt, and starting out with a large flaker of antler tine, press directly into the edge, and with a rolling, downward motion peel flakes off across the face of the blank. The more pressure exerted into the edge, the larger the flakes which will come off. Remember, by placing the flaker on the edge, and rolling down, the flakes will come off the underside of the blank as its held in the handmitt. Work all along the edges and from both faces of the blank. Repeat the process with smaller flakers as necessary depending on the size of the tool being made.
Step 7 -- KnappingThe actual technique of knapping takes very small flakes off along the edge, and produces the final razor sharpness. Using very pointed, sometimes almost needlelike flakers of antler, remove the flakes with the same inward pressure, and rolling downward twist as is used in pressure flaking.
Step 8 -- NibblingNibblers are antler tines with a notch ground into the end, and are used to crumble the notches into the bottom corners of the point, the notches, of course, used to lash the point to the arrow shaft. Pressure flaking also works to flake the notches.

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Tools of the Trade

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From The Tracker magazine, Summer 1982, published by the Tracker School.
For more articles from The Tracker magazine, visit the Tracker Trail website.

How to tell if the Moon is Waxing or Waning

Moon Phases - T. L. Willis
If you want to determine if the moon is Waxing (getting bigger) or Waning (getting smaller) all you have to do is look when you can see it. If it is visible in the evening sky the Moon is Waxing (getting bigger). If the moon is visible at dawn or in the early morning, it is Waning. Here is a rhyme to help you remember it:
If you see the Moon at the end of the day
A bright Full Moon is on its way
If you see the Moon in the early dawn
Look real quick, it will soon be gone.
Another way to identify a Waxing or Waning Moon is to look at which side is "incomplete". When the Moon is illuminated in such a way that the side facing West is "incomplete" the Moon is Waning (getting smaller). It the side to the East is "incomplete" the Moon is Waxing (getting bigger)

Food Storage - Bare Minimum Basics

Basic storage is the foundation of any good food storage program. it is composed of life-sustaining foods that store well for long periods of time. A year's supply of garden seeds for planting should be stored so that the diet may be supplemented with fresh vegetables. When garden space is limited, a multiple vitamin pill sold also be stored for daily use by each person during a long period of emergency. Vitamins deteriorate over time and must be replaced by the expiration date on the container.

The following recommendations are estimated for an average adult. The amounts in the left-hand column supply about 2300 calories per day for 1 year. The amounts in the right hand column supply about 2400 calories a day for a 1 year.

300 pounds	Grains	400 pounds
60 pounds	Legumes	60 pounds
20 pounds	Fats and Oils	10 quarts

60 pounds	Sugars	59 pounds
75 pounds	Powder Milk*	16 pounds
5 pounds	Salt	8 pounds

*16 pounds of milk supplies only 1 cup of milk per day and is not enough for growing children or pregnant/nursing mothers.

Garden Seeds - Hallelujah for non-hybrid seeds! Honeyville Farms (where I work) has carried the non-hybrid garden seeds, culinary herb, and fruits. But now we also have Ancient Grains, Salsa, and Medicinal Herbs. These seeds store for 4-5 years and even longer in colder temperatures.

Fuel Facts

Before I delve into the subject of fuel I must make a note. I (Karin) post on Thursdays and Fridays. I try to keep it to the basics. I like to think that my posts are - Survival 101 or even Preparedness 100. Sometimes becoming self-sufficient is an overwhelming task. So we'll be starting with baby steps. I should start with food and water, but today is rainy and cold - so I'm beginning with fuel.

FUEL FACTS

"Simply Prepared and Emergency Food in a Nutshell and Lamplighter Farms"

Safest to store fuels in a shed away from house.

CANDLES: 3/4-inch diameter X 4-inch burns about 2:20 hours. 7/8-diameter x 4-inch burns about 5 hours. 2-inch x 9-inch burns about 75 hours.

CANNED HEAT: Stores easily and can be used in doors. A 7-ounce can burns about 1:30 hours. It will evaporate over long periods of time, especially if stored in warm environment.

CHARCOAL: Use for outdoor cooking only. Stores indefinitely if kept dry. Use good quality like Kingsford for easier lighting and better burn time. When used in an applebox oven, use 1 briquette for every 35 degrees burns for 35 minutes. For Dutch oven cooking, use the oven size in inches plus 3 briquettes on top and the oven size in inches minus 3 briquettes on the bottom for 350-375 degrees. One hour per day baking in applebox over = 24 -#15 lb bags charcoals.

COOKING OIL: Emergency candles can be made from oil. Take a piece of string, lay one end in cooking oil and allow the other end to hang over the edge of jar. Light the dry end. Use 7-8 strings for more light. These are very smoky and should be used only when nothing else is available.

FLASHLIGHTS:  Two-battery flashlight with new batteries will work for about 6 hours. Store in a cool area. Don't store batteries in flashlights. Store extra batteries and bulbs. Some headlamps last for up to 200 hours on 3-AAA batteries. Crank flashlights last about 30 on 1 min cranking. Okay light. Shake flashlights not recommended because they are so dim when lit.

GASOLINE: Only outdoor use. For use with generators, use a lot of fuel. Stores 1 year in tightly sealed container, longer with additive, keep in cool place. Limits on amounts to store.

KEROSENE: With 1-inch wick, a kerosene lantern will burn for 45 hours on 1 quart. Burning 5 hours each day the following amounts of kerosene would be used: about 1 quart per week, 3-1/2 quarts per month, 10 gallons per year. It can be used indoors. Dangerous to store. Refuel and light outside to avoid smell. Only store high-quality 1K kerosene. Store outside/shed only in shade. Stores 1-2 years unless using additive like Pri-G 10-20 year extension or Stabil that about 2-5 years. 100 gallons of Kerosene will run a heater for a year.

LAMP OIL: Petroleum based. For hurricane type lamps. Odorless/smoke free, 10 hours per ounce burn time or 640 hours/128 days for 1/2 gallon. Stores indefinitely in house or garage. Lamp oil should be 1/2-inch below top of neck and not less that 2-inches below while using. Wick should not be visible above the dome while burning. If it's too high it will cause smoke. 2 gallons = 2 years per lamp. Store extra wicks and lamps if possible.

NEWSPAPER LOGS: Four logs burn approximately 1 hour and produce heat comparable to the same amount of wood on pound-per-pound basis.

PROPANE: Outdoor use only unless appliance has ODS (oxygen depletion sensor). Stores indefinitely. Store outdoors in shade in upright position. Propane containers must be recertified every 10 years. Small cylinder will burn about 2-1/2 hours, 20-lb runs 12-14 hours. Can be used for lanterns, stoves, and heaters. Usual legal limit five - 5-gallon tanks. Small tanks $3.00 + each.

WHITE GAS: Costly and only outdoor use. 38 gallons = 5 hours a day, 2 mantel lantern, 91 gallons = 4 hours 2 burner stove per day.

WOOD: Stores many years. Hardwood burns longer, 2-6 cords for winter warmth/cooking. A cord of wood is 4 feet x 4 feet x 8 feet.

Take inventory of the fuel that you do have and then start from there. Sometimes its just a matter of evaluating and recognizing what you have on hand.

~Karin

Snare Fishing

by Tom Brown Jr.

One of the things I consider when I'm about to lay my trap line is a fish trap line. This is simple to accomplish along any stream or lake where saplings and trees come down to the water's edge. By simply baiting your skewer hook, which is a carved bone hook, and tying it to a snare line one can catch fish unattended. A sapling near the water's edge should be bent over and hooked with a rolling snare or a T-bar snare. The line containing the bait and hook can be thrown into the water, weighted down or placed on a float. In this way, when the fish swallows the bait and tugs to get away the skewer hook will lodge in his throat and automatically pull the rolling snare of T-bar snare trigger and set the trap. When the sapling is lifted, the fish will be pulled from the water and away from the ground. This way no predators or scavengers will come along and pick at your fish until you cut him down. Along any stream bank there can be a number of these baited snares that need little attention. It does not require a survivalist to use his precious time to watch a hook and line in the water or try to snag these fish by hand.
Another variation of this can be used when ice fishing. Simply cut a hole in the ice and use the weighted lever snare. By simply taking a Y stick and imbedding it into the ice, and using a lever weighted at one end to produce a spring stick affair, you can set the hook the same way. You do not have to use a rolling snare type of trigger, or a T-bar. All that is needed is a small hooked piece of wood. The line is put into the water and the hooked piece of wood holds the snare taut by clipping onto the side of the ice. Please refer to the illustration that accompanies this article:

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From The Tracker magazine, Summer 1982, published by the Tracker School.
For more articles from The Tracker magazine, visit the Tracker Trail website.

Simple Survival Snares

Simple Snares for Survival

written by Keith Sutton

In a survival situation, simple snares can be used to catch everything from mice to rabbits to deer for food.  Unfortunately, this doesn't happen as easily or as often as Hollywood might have us believe, not even under the best circumstances with the most skilled survivalist.      First, the snares must be properly constructed.  Second, they must be correctly placed.  Third, an animal must come along and stick its head in the snare loop, tightening it as it moves.  At the same time, nothing about the snare location, presence or smell can give the animal warning.  Done properly, your success ratio might be as high as 10 to 1; ten snares set will yield one success.  But this will happen only if you've taken time to learn proper methods for rigging and placing snares. A snare is simply a noose that tightens over an animal's body as it tries to go through it.  Wire snares are best for small animals and can be made from light wire carried in your survival kit or scavenged from your vehicle.  If wire is unavailable, you can improvise with fishing line, twine, shoelaces, strips of leather or cloth, or even rope or heavy cable if deer or other large animals inhabit the area. Regardless of the type of snare you're making, you must begin by making a noose.  When using wire or other stiff material, bend the tip over and twist it several times to form an eye.  Then run the other end of the wire through it to form the noose.  When using fishing line or other pliant materials, make a loop that's closed with a slip-knot. The strategy is to suspend the noose so the animal's head, but not its shoulders, will pass through the loop as the animal moves along.  Sticks can be positioned on either side to hold the loop open.  As the animal's head passes through the snare, its shoulders push against the line, drawing the loop tighter as it moves forward.  The animal will lunge as the noose tightens, trying to get free.  If it does not escape during its struggles, it usually will die from strangulation or a broken neck. Snares can be very elaborate, but simplicity is best, because success may require numerous sets.  The simplest type is a trail set.  The open noose is placed in a trail or run used by animals, and the anchor end is secured to a tree, bush, log or stake.  Something heavy and awkward to drag -- a long branch, for instance -- may be used if a solid tie-off point is unavailable.    In a survival situation a simple wire snare like this is best. Rabbits often travel distinct, well-worn runways in dense cover, and trail sets placed in such locations are very effective for catching them.  Secure the anchor end of the snare to an overhanging branch, and open the loop about 4 inches, keeping the bottom of the loop three or four inches above the ground.  Set several snares about 10 yards apart along each runway. Deer also follow trails, so if you have a strong piece of material from which to make a snare -- some nylon rope or wire cable, for instance -- you may want to try for a large supply of meat.  Find a recently used deer trail, then, in a narrowly confined spot (such as between two trees), position a noose three to four feet in diameter at your waist height.  Be sure your slip knot slides easily.  Then anchor the other end of the snare to a solid tree.  Another good place to set snares is at the entrance of den holes.  Look for burrows of woodchucks and smaller ground squirrels, the stream-bank holes of beavers and muskrats, and holes at the base of hollow trees that might be used by raccoons, squirrels, rabbits or other small animals.  Hollow logs may be used by many animals.  Attach the snare to a solid anchor -- a stake driven near the entrance with a rock, if necessary.  And be sure the snare noose is smaller than the entrance hole.  Any animal moving in or out of the den is likely to be caught. Look, too, for logs that have fallen across shallow creeks.  Animals like raccoons often cross a creek over a log rather than getting in the water.  Snares placed at each end of the log to catch animals as they start across often prove effective. If squirrels are abundant, consider making a pole snare.  Given a choice, squirrels would much rather go up a slope than climb directly up a tree.  To take advantage of this behavior, a long pole is leaned against a tree used by squirrels.  Then several wire nooses, about 2-1/2 inches in diameter, are anchored to the pole, with each loop curving up and around so it lays on top of the pole. When a squirrel is caught, it tends to flip off the pole and strangles.  As one is caught, others may come to investigate, with similar results. If you are in an area inhabited by coyotes, bears or other opportunistic feeders, a snare that lifts your game out of reach above the ground is advisable.  These are usually called twitch-up snares, spring snares or trigger snares.  Using the same noose, twitch-ups add a device that triggers a bent sapling or a rock weighting the snare line.  Serious injuries can occur if one doesn't exercise the utmost caution when rigging this type of trap.    Prejudices against unusual foods usually disappear in a true survival situation.  An armadillo would be a welcome meal. It's a good idea to include several yards of wire or fishing line in your survival kit for use in improvising snares.  My own kit contains a spool of green, 20-gauge snare wire purchased at an army surplus store for less than $2.  The spool, about the size of two ordinary spools of thread, contains enough wire to rig several dozen snares. You may also want to consider purchasing commercially made snares.  These are made of strong, braided steel wire and have a locking mechanism that secures the animal once it is snared.  It is virtually impossible for the animal to get out by jumping or twisting. Finally, it is important to remember the snaring techniques discussed here are illegal in most areas, although all law enforcement agencies recognize the right to harvest food in a survival situation.  Special permits may or may not be available from your state wildlife agency for survival training.  Check with the proper authority before practicing.

Survival Handguns

The Top Five Handguns for Survival - They Would All Get You Thru Hard Times

If someone asked you what your opinion was on the top five pistols or revolvers that could be used for self defense or in a survival situation what would you say? When you think about it you need more than just five at least I would, so lets just look at semi automatic pistols. Caliber put aside, many of these are available in multiple calibers that should fit just about everyone, big and slow, small and fast or somewhere in between. Any one of these will get you through hard times, maybe hard times right around the corner.

The criteria for this needs to be understood going in. First and most important the weapon must be reliable, nothing else matters if it doesn’t shoot every time you pull the trigger. Second it must be accurate enough to get the bullet on the target at a moderate distance. We are not looking for a target grade or match pistol nor one that the best you can hope for is to hit the target somewhere at ten feet away. Combat accuracy is what we need to have. Third the weapon must be durable. In a survival situation you may not be able to get parts or a replacement weapon itself if things turn South. Last but not least the pistol needs to be affordable by the average person. Magazines and holsters shouldn’t be a special order item, it costs way too much to do that for most people. We are more or less looking at production firearms made by reputable manufacturers.

With those thing being said lets see what we have. Keep one thing in mind, if I miss your weapon feel free to explain why you feel it is well suited for our purposes. These pistols are in no specific order by the way.

Glock 17: This is the original plastic pistol and like them or not they have started an entire new world in handguns. The pistols themselves are extremely durable almost to the point of being ridiculous. The Glock 22 in 40 S&W is the single most popular police pistol in America and with good reason. A trademark of Glock pistols is high capacity magazines and their famous “safe action” trigger system. Glock is also the only pistol that can truly run dry, they are more or less the AK-47 of the pistol world. One person said that if you treat your gun like you treat your lawn mower, buy a Glock. The guns are everywhere, they are priced at competitive numbers and accessories of all kinds are found any place you look which translates to good pricing. Glock has pistols in 9mm, 357 Sig, 40 S&W, 45 Acp, 10mm and even the 45 Gap so finding your favorite caliber shouldn’t be that hard. Easy to clean and easy to shoot with a constant trigger pull it is easy to see why its so popular.

Sig P220/226: Now here we have weapon that is the choice of the FBI, Navy Seals, Coast Guard, Secret Service, The Texas Department of Public Safety and the list goes on. The weapons are at the top of the heap in the service/combat pistol market. It has been said many times that if a police department has the money they all want Sig’s. The Army even after adopting the Beretta M9 authorized the Sig M11, or for me and you the P228. Famous for their reliability and de-cocking system the pistols offer a rugged reliable side arm that have a plethora of accessories available for them. It has been said and could very well be true that the P220 in 45 Acp is the most accurate service pistol in 45 available today. I have seen these pistols feed empty cases. 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 Acp and of course 357 Sig are your caliber choices in this family. They say “To Hell and Back Reliability” and they mean it. One last thing, almost everyone who picks one up thinks a P226 fits their hand just right.

Beretta 92f/M9:Like them or not they are here to stay for some time to come. The U.S. military has reported excellent results from their pistols in the field once the lowest bidder contract magazines were replaced. The weapon runs and runs some more. The military has hundreds of thousands of these pistols in the field and have reported very few actual problems with them. Many have said that they need to hit the target several times to stop them but that is a fault of using a fmj jacket round not the pistol itself. With the addition of an accessory rail on the M9A1 the pistol can now compete with other top of the line pistols when it comes to using lights and lasers and such. Again here we have another pistol in use everywhere you turn so buying things for them is easy and well priced. These are big weapons so if there is one area that could be improved on its size, they are a little hard to hide in the summer.

Springfield Armory XD:This weapon has not seen any real use by military or law enforcement but it is one of the best selling pistols in the country. Here is a weapon that many see as an attempt to improve on the Glock, which it may very well be. Springfield introduced the XD(m) pistols as an upgrade to the basic gun. One thing about the XD’s is that they hold a bunch of rounds no matter what version or caliber you buy and they make a bunch of different versions by the way. Springfield is a little stingy on things like night sighted guns but other than that they give the buyer a nice pistol for the money which of the five pistols in this list, they are the lowest priced. Accessories are a little more limited that the others but again only because they don not have any major law enforcement or military contracts. The XD’s are reliable soft shooting weapons that people who own them really like them and they buy more, that’s one of the best endorsements you can get.

1911/Government Model: OK OK, you knew it had to be here. The government model has been around for over a century and I bet there is a reason for that. This big old fighter packs a big punch in one of the fastest shooting pistols you can own. Since it is single action almost anyone can shoot one well once they get by the recoil of the 45 Acp round. The 1911 can be turned into one of the most accurate reliable fighting handguns on the planet and is still what most people judge all the others against. Accessories are everywhere at all kinds of prices. The weapons themselves are durable and hard to break even in adverse conditions. So many companies make them now it would almost impossible to list them all. You have the original Colt, then Springfield, Taurus, Kimber, Sig, Para Ordinance, Auto Ordinance, Remington, Rock Island, some other island I’m sure, who knows. Custom guns from Wilson Combat, Night Hawk, Ed Brown and many more. With a good set if sights with a good trigger its hard to get a better combat firearm. They are easy to care for and keep on running.

So that’s it. Granted there are many many more. The Browning Hi Power is one of my favorites and then we have a bunch of pistols from makers like Kahr, Ruger and Taurus. Keep in mind the criteria we started with. Solid performers at competitive prices that were durable and reliable and that afforded owners easy access to accessories and parts if needed. While it is true that many others have good quality firearms I was looking for the best of the best that fit the bill. No crazy stuff like .50 caliber Desert Eagle’s even thought they are great fun and very powerful handguns, they just don’t fit the role for a survival handgun too well. Any one of these five above should be able to get you through hard times if they are given even moderate care.

Posted by BLW at 7:09 AM , Links to this post

Is the US Shadow Government planning for TEOTWAWKI?

As we’ve noted before on a number of occasions, the US government is preparing for Unlikely Events Like War, Catastrophic Collapse of Society, and Even Asteroids and the Pentagon and Military are Actively War Gaming ‘Large Scale Economic Breakdown’ and ‘Civil Unrest’. In addition to security and law enforcement implications, it doesn’t take much of a stretch of the imagination to come to the conclusion that war gaming these scenarios takes into account continuity of government directives, which means that elite members of reserve government elements need a place to go if the SHTF.
The fact that bunkers exist is no secret, and as was pointed out in the aforementioned articles, there are many of them around the country. Rumor has it that the government has built literal underground cities spanning hundreds of thousands of square feet, complete with everything from nuclear power generation to facilities capable of manufacturing just about any modern day product. The idea is that in the event of a global cataclysm, the human race would be able to survive and thrive, without losing the technological advancements achieved over the last couple of centuries.
The following pictures come to us from a truck driver who has regularly delivered goods to bunker facilities. Most interesting is this individual notes that up until recently, security at these facilities has been somewhat lax and there was never really a visible law enforcement presence. The pictures below show parts of the inside of an underground bunker, as well as a newly visible Department of Homeland Security presence. What this means is for the reader to decide.
It is also important to mention that not all bunker facilities are wholly owned by the United States government. Many, like the one in Springfield, Missouri depicted in the video at the bottom of this article, are reportedly owned by private interests. These facilities have been carved out inside of existing mines and their purpose is not exactly clear, other than they are designed for housing large groups of individuals and/or supplies for extended periods of time – and they’re quite secure and almost impenetrable without heavy duty blasting equipment once the doors are shut.
For those who have researched continuity of government programs, you’re likely aware that in the event such actions need to be taken because portions of the US government have been decapitated, a secondary government infrastructure sits in waiting to take control. From the standpoint of emergency planning, plans for continuity of government are an important consideration in a free society. The problem, of course, is that the public is completely in the dark about COG directives and who will take over. From what we have been able to gather, COG doesn’t mean exactly what we think it might mean, which is to ensure survival of our fundamental principles as outlined by the US Constitution. Rather, it is believed that in the instance that our elected government falls apart, the replacement would be a self-appointed group of governors, complete with law enforcement and military, that would take control of day-to-day operations. Due to the secrecy surrounding COG, it is impossible to know what plans lie ahead, but private, unelected interests certainly will have a hand in any new government – much like they do now.
These private interests would include wealthy conglomerates who would likely be the only ones (for the exception of government directly) capable of building extensive bunker facilities like the ones shown below.
We must assume that the government and these private conglomerates will be acting in their own interests during a worst-case scenario. Thus, while those underground bunker facilities are peppered throughout the nation, it’s reasonable to assume that very few, if any, of those supplies will be delivered to those outside of the COG programs.
Unless you’re one of the chosen few, you’re on your own.
Editor’s Note: Large food manufacturers and other companies have been known to outsource storage of food, products, records, etc. to underground facilities. This may be the case with some of these underground cave facilities. Again, this is a conclusion that must be left up to our readers because we are operating with incomplete information.
Via Godlike Productions:

I delivered at an underground storage facility in Lenexa Ks (south west suburb of Kansas City Ks) today and this is what I saw.
Funny thing is I have delivered to these facilities many times and have never even seen so much as a cop.
Today was different and a little strange.

The author goes on to further discuss the DHS presence, which is odd, especially if the facility is privately owned.
Pictures via Photobucket:
It is unclear whether this particular facility is managed, funded and controlled directly by DHS because it is near a government facility:

Or, whether the facility is privately managed. The following sign shows private companies operating in and around the facility:

What is clear, is that Department of Homeland Security (not your average private security company) has a presence in the area:

And they are not simply cruising the side roads, but directly entering the bunker facilities (this particular vehicle entered the bunker facility via the left entrance):

Truck driver responsible for this photos Enters one of the caves / bunkers (Note train tracks on right):

If you think your preparedness closet and storage facility are stocked with ample food, tools, and supplies, consider how much these guys can load up into one of these caves. Whatever they’re planning for, it’s going to be for the long haul:

The above storage facility is reportedly located in Kansas City, KS.

Below, you can take a video tour of a bunker facility located in Missouri. Like the Kansas cave, these are extensive facilities designed for housing large amounts of supplies – and people:

Jesse Ventura’s Conspiracy Theory: Apocalypse 2012 includes discussions of alleged Denver airport underground bunkers, the private bunker construction industry, and the expeditious nature in which the US government and others are building these facilities:
This report has been published in the interest of keeping our readers informed. While natural or man-made disasters can strike anytime, we strongly believe that an imminent disaster that has the foreknowledge of our government, or elements therein, will be spotted by individuals who see something and say something to the rest of the public. It’s the truck driver who regularly enters these facilities and sees something out of the ordinary, or the security guard, or the law enforcement officer, or the passerby, that will be our canary in the coal mine. Our goal is to bring you credible information and evidence as it happens. What you do with that information is up to you.
Sourced via God Like Productions. Pictures sourced via Photo Bucket. Our thanks to Live Free or Die for bringing the video and this story to our attention via Before It’s News.
Author: Mac Slavo