Making Traditional Mukluks

 

Indigenous people in all parts of the far North developed similar winter footwear to cope with extreme cold and snow. All are made high enough to keep snow out and roomy enough for plenty of insulation. Exact design, materials and embellishments vary by local conditions and what was available. Originally, all were made from animal hide using fur or plant material as insulation. Apparently the name mukluk comes from “maklak”, the Yupik people of Alaska’s name for the bearded seal. This article describes my first attempt at making traditional mukluks.
My thoughts on the evolution of indigenous technology are largely based on the discussions and theories one inevitably has when making and using it. When you start living with things you can really start to appreciate how they were done for real. I should point out before we go any further that my historical knowledge of this stuff is pretty limited so don’t take it as gospel.
These days mukluk is used to describe a wide range of footwear loosely based on the style – much of it less functional fashion-led footwear. However, there are still people making and selling mukluks intended for snowshoeing and use outdoors. If you intend buying mukluks to actually use then double check with the supplier that they’re suitable. Buying a pair of mukluks is fine but even if you don’t have much experience with needle and thread it’s pretty easy to make yourself a pair as I’ll demonstrate.
The design adopted by many people for snowshoeing mukluks seems to be a modern upgrade of the winter moccasin of the north woods of North America. The modern bit is canvas which may not sound that modern but context is everything! As woven fabrics were traded across the Americas I guess they were used in place of hide where it didn’t affect function. This “classic” design has settled on a hide foot (styled and constructed like a moccasin) with a gaiter made from canvas. The hide of choice here is smoke tanned moose hide because of its strength and longevity.
The explorer Mike Horn recounts how the Norwegian polar explorer Børge Ousland tells him that in the arctic your hand should fit in your glove like a car fits in a garage. This also applies to footwear. In cold weather the last thing you want is tight or restrictive footwear which compromises the air trapping ability of the insulation. The foot is made large enough to accommodate probably two pairs of wool socks plus a liner of wool or felt with a felt insole. I say probably as this can all be varied according to personal preference – the joys of making your own kit.
None of this sounds too radical but if you try making traditional mukluks (or even buy some) in the cold I guarantee you’ll be astonished at how good they are. The absolutely key difference between these and modern boots is breathability. Once your feet are damp – which happens surprisingly often in “normal” footwear – the insulative properties of whatever’s between you and the cold are compromised. As the wool insulation and untreated hide breathe extremely well there is no build up of moisture and so no cold feet. Of course if the hide gets wet its breathability is reduced. For this reason they’re at their best in cold-dry environments.
Many modern boots such as rubber pac boots just aren’t that practical on multi-day trips in cold weather. Anyone who’s worn boots like these for a whole day knows how much moisture is trapped in the liners and probably their socks by the end of the day. Drying these takes a very reliable even heat source (hence the invention of crazy things like electric boot driers). Traditional mukluks just don’t need the same sort of drying. More like airing – much more achievable in a wilderness setting.
Hopefully you’re sold on these by now so here’s a quick step by step to show you how easy it is to make some. For a more depth I suggest getting hold of The Snow Walker’s Companion by Garrett and Alexandra Conover* which has detailed instructions and patterns.
I don’t think there could be a much simpler way to make footwear. The foot is simply two pieces – the foot (the larger piece) and the vamp (the smaller piece). I tacked these together to keep everything in kilter while stitching. Sizing can be done by eye and a bit of drawing round your foot or from the pattern.

The vamp is whip stitched to the foot for an inch or so at the “back” then the foot part is puckered and stitched to the vamp to give the curve in the toe. This is where I deviated from the instructions. By the third go at the Conover puckering method my leather resembled a pin cushion! A more simple but probably less strong stitch was improvised.

The liners were made from 10mm felt. This was kindly provided by my good friend Tim at Yurtworks in Cornwall. Apparently this felt is used to line yurts and is also used for boot liners in Mongolia. These look slightly rough and ready as getting the stitches tight was difficult with the thick felt but they do the job! They’re sized by drawing round your foot and measuring your calf for the tops (taking into account extra room for long johns, wool trousers etc).

The next step is to make the gaiter. Unfortunately there are no photos of this. It was snowing hard outside and I was desperate to get them finished by the morning so photography went out the window! Basically the gaiter is a conical shape sized to fit the calf at the top and the top of the moccasin at the bottom. they’re hemmed at the top where holes are made for a drawcord to keep the snow out. When complete they’re whip stitched to the moccasin.
The gaiters are fastened loosely to the legs with long ties which are criss-crossed up the leg. A method of joining these to the foot part is desirable so as to give a “pull” on the foot. I have yet to add this feature so just improvised using a long strip of the gaiter material.
After some field testing I can honestly say this is probably the most comfortable footwear I’ve ever worn. It’s a bizarre thing to be walking outside and feeling like you’re wearing just socks – compared to modern boots there is virtually no weight to them. Warmth-wise I was thoroughly impressed. They’re certainly the warmest thing I’ve ever worn. Things like this really do make you step back and think about all the modern kit we use. Is it really better or just easier to manufacture in quantity? Hmmmm.
If you’re feeling adventurous I’d urge you to have a go at making a pair. If not mukluks, the same construction methods can be used to make yourself a pair of slippers, camp shoes or some practical stalking shoes. A stylish addition to any shoe rack! If you have a go I’d love to hear how you get on.

Cold Weather Survival

It's winter where I live.....time to button up!

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/cold-3.php

BASIC PRINCIPLES OF COLD
WEATHER SURVIVAL

It is more difficult for you to satisfy your basic water, food, and shelter needs in a cold environment than in a warm environment. Even if you have the basic requirements, you must also have adequate protective clothing and the will to survive. The will to survive is as important as the basic needs. There have been incidents when trained and well-equipped individuals have not survived cold weather situations because they lacked the will to live. Conversely, this will has sustained individuals less well-trained and equipped.
There are many different items of cold weather equipment and clothing issued by the U.S. Army today. Specialized units may have access to newer, lightweight gear such as polypropylene underwear, GORE-TEX outerwear and boots, and other special equipment. Remember, however, the older gear will keep you warm as long as you apply a few cold weather principles. If the newer types of clothing are available, use them. If not, then your clothing should be entirely wool, with the possible exception of a windbreaker.
You must not only have enough clothing to protect you from the cold, you must also know how to maximize the warmth you get from it. For example, always keep your head covered. You can lose 40 to 45 percent of body heat from an unprotected head and even more from the unprotected neck, wrist, and ankles. These areas of the body are good radiators of heat and have very little insulating fat. The brain is very susceptible to cold and can stand the least amount of cooling. Because there is much blood circulation in the head, most of which is on the surface, you can lose heat quickly if you do not cover your head.
There are four basic principles to follow to keep warm. An easy way to remember these basic principles is to use the word COLD--
C -  Keep clothing clean.
O -  Avoid overheating.
L -  Wear clothes loose and in layers.
D -  Keep clothing dry.

C -	Keep clothing clean. This principle is always important for sanitation and comfort. In winter, it is also important from the standpoint of warmth. Clothes matted with dirt and grease lose much of their insulation value. Heat can escape more easily from the body through the clothing's crushed or filled up air pockets.
O -	Avoid overheating. When you get too hot, you sweat and your clothing absorbs the moisture. This affects your warmth in two ways: dampness decreases the insulation quality of clothing, and as sweat evaporates, your body cools. Adjust your clothing so that you do not sweat. Do this by partially opening your parka or jacket, by removing an inner layer of clothing, by removing heavy outer mittens, or by throwing back your parka hood or changing to lighter headgear. The head and hands act as efficient heat dissipaters when overheated.
L -	Wear your clothing loose and in layers. Wearing tight clothing and footgear restricts blood circulation and invites cold injury. It also decreases the volume of air trapped between the layers, reducing its insulating value. Several layers of lightweight clothing are better than one equally thick layer of clothing, because the layers have dead-air space between them. The dead-air space provides extra insulation. Also, layers of clothing allow you to take off or add clothing layers to prevent excessive sweating or to increase warmth.
D -	Keep clothing dry. In cold temperatures, your inner layers of clothing can become wet from sweat and your outer layer, if not water repellent, can become wet from snow and frost melted by body heat. Wear water repellent outer clothing, if available. It will shed most of the water collected from melting snow and frost. Before entering a heated shelter, brush off the snow and frost. Despite the precautions you take, there will be times when you cannot keep from getting wet. At such times, drying your clothing may become a major problem. On the march, hang your damp mittens and socks on your rucksack. Sometimes in freezing temperatures, the wind and sun will dry this clothing. You can also place damp socks or mittens, unfolded, near your body so that your body heat can dry them. In a campsite, hang damp clothing inside the shelter near the top, using drying lines or improvised racks. You may even be able to dry each item by holding it before an open fire. Dry leather items slowly. If no other means are available for drying your boots, put them between your sleeping bag shell and liner. Your body heat will help to dry the leather.

A heavy, down-lined sleeping bag is a valuable piece of survival gear in cold weather. Ensure the down remains dry. If wet, it loses a lot of its insulation value. If you do not have a sleeping bag, you can make one out of parachute cloth or similar material and natural dry material, such as leaves, pine needles, or moss. Place the dry material between two layers of the material.
Other important survival items are a knife; waterproof matches in a waterproof container, preferably one with a flint attached; a durable compass; map; watch; waterproof ground cloth and cover; flashlight; binoculars; dark glasses; fatty emergency foods; food gathering gear; and signaling items.
Remember, a cold weather environment can be very harsh. Give a good deal of thought to selecting the right equipment for survival in the cold. If unsure of an item you have never used, test it in an "overnight backyard" environment before venturing further. Once you have selected items that are essential for your survival, do not lose them after you enter a cold weather environment.

Now Is The Time To Look For Winter Clothing

Believe it or not, now is the time for us to be looking for winter clothing. For those of us in the Rockies, we are well aware of what winter brings in temperature, snow and wind. Those of you in more temperate climates, feel lucky now, but be aware that as things deteriorate in our country, you may be forced to move into those beautiful snowy mountains. Here are some thoughts about warm cold weather clothing.

Insulation is nothing more than providing dead air space for heat to be stored. Therefore, higher bulk clothing is more insulating than thin clothing: Wool is better than cotton, nylon, rayon or any other clothing fabric except for maybe polypropylene There are always exceptions to the rule, but for the most part this is a pretty good rule. Therefore, it figures that a high loft down parka, as long as it is dry, will provide the wearer with excellent insulation.

There was a key phrase there. Did you pick it out? Well to remind you, the key phrase was " as long as it is dry ". Snow seldom wets down,only because of the nylon fabric that is used as the outer windbreaker surface and most if not all down parka manufacturers use water resistant material for this purpose. But, if it gets wet, it is absolutely useless in the cold weather.

So, what other types of fabrics provide good insulation. Again, bulk is one key. The next is the type of filling that is used to provide the insulation. After the dawn of the synthetic age, Dacron and other synthetic batting became very popular. It provided good loft, and the synthetic nature of the batting meant that even if wet, it would provide some insulation. Over the years the materials have been specially designed so that the moisture would freeze in the fiber, and then could actually be broken off of the batting, by simply a hardy shake. This was a great selling feature when I was selling sleeping bags at the local sporting goods store. Down was great, but the synthetic fiber was more popular.

The military went one step further by including down, feathers and a synthetic batting for their sleeping systems. The idea being that if the down got wet, the feathers would still provide some loft, and adding the synthetic batting would also provide the loft necessary to be able to stay warm enough not to freeze.

Back in the days of my youth...just about the time that dirt was created, when I went skiing we relied mostly on cotton thermal underwear...the white waffle kind, and then a good pair of down snow bibs, and a down parka. No layering, just a good coat we felt was all that was necessary.

I always seemed to get cold anyway, and so the next year, I'd purchase a bigger coat, until I looked a lot like the Pillsbury Dough Boy. The reason? We didn't take into account the fact that our bodies were sweating, and the good old cotton underwear became moist, lost it's loft and actually became a better conduit for cold than our own bare skin.

Enter layering.

As time went on, we found that if we could stop the wind from penetrating our coats, and we were wearing some sweater type insulating material, the bulk problem disappeared. Then the thin parka/windbreaker became very popular. It was long, and reached nearly to our knees. It had zippers on the sides, and in the front that could be adjusted upwards so as not to encumber our legs and arms while skiing, and we could also regulate the amount of air that got inside the coat. Unfortunately, we were still wearing cotton for the underwear, and it still got damp from our sweat.

We then discovered that wool. It seemed that wool was the best type of under garment to use, because it would not get wet, and the bulk was still there for greater insulation. However, wool itches and can become very uncomfortable for some people to wear close to their skin. Eventually, polypropylene was invented, and with it a breathable, water wicking underwear became the rage.

Open cell foam is an excellent insulator. It is breathable, and allows the moisture to pass through, and still hold the heat in. I was on a winter camp a few years ago. We were ice fishing at a mountain lake, not far from home. The weather was clear, and in the winter, this usually means COLD. Especially at night when there are no clouds, all of the heat escapes skyward. The temperatures dropped to about forty degrees below zero F. A year before, I learned a lesson not to sleep on top of the snow. You have to remove the snow down to the bare frozen ground. I don't remember a more uncomfortable night, as I continued to roll like I was on a spit...but no fire, just ice.

I read about a man named Jim Phillips, who had tested many different materials to see which one was the best insulator. He found that 1" or 2" layers on top of a sleeping bag was the most efficient way to stay warm. Underneath the sleeping bag he used a 3" or 4" open cell foam pad. I tried his system that year when the temperature got so cold. I was surprised at how warm I stayed using this simple system of newspaper, plastic sheeting, foam under pad and a 1" foam cover over the sleeping bag; then wrapping myself up like a mummy in the plastic sheeting. My son and I literally had to open our bags because we got too hot. Most of the others were in their cars with the engines running, trying to stay warm with the car heaters. In the morning the plastic sheeting had the moisture from our bodies frozen on it. A matter of a shake or two, and the water vapor turned ice was gone. We actually breathed in the plastic sheeting. Note, this is not like thin dry cleaners plastic, but heavy visqueen material.

Now, Jim Phillips has designed a foam clothing system that can be used underneath a windbreaker. He also designed foam gloves, hats, boots and other accessories. They do work, but with heavy use, they have a tendency to break down. So, it is wise to either purchase extra clothing, or get the patterns and make some extras.

I have found that if you can find merino wool, this is one of the best layering natural fibers. The merino wool is short stranded, and does not cause itching found in regular wool clothing. The one bad thing is the cost. It is similar to cashmere in it's feel, and it also doesn't pick up the sweaty smell that other wool products do. You can layer 2 or 3 sweaters, and find yourself in non-bulky bliss. I find that if I continue to look for merino wool sweaters and pullovers in the second-hand stores this time of year, most times I can pick it up for about $5.00 a sweater. Also, merino wool socks are excellent for boots as they don't itch, pass moisture, and wear very well.

Try and stay with natural colors like brown, tan, light green or other natural color. Blue and red are not natural colors!

Survival Clothing

Dressing properly: I see two distinct premises for an article regarding clothing: First is to encourage proper dress when going into a potential survival situation; and secondly is to have suitable clothing incorporated into your bug-out bag or car survival kit if you are forced to flee at a moments notice. If you are suddenly caught in a earthquake and flew out the house dressed in your pajamas and only have that bug-out bag in hand, what is the weather like outside? Is it warm sunny summer day? Or is it in the cold rain or dead of winter in a blizzard? Do you relish the thought of hiking through the boonies in you pajamas and no shoes? Don't forget it is your kit and you can change its contents as you think best to accommodate the seasons.
Regardless of the need for your survival clothing there are a few things to consider.

• Your local or planned environment.
• Time of year regarding climate.
• Space and weight limitations.
• Cost.

One of the current philosophies regarding outdoor clothing is the layering concept; wherein a variety of lighter weight materials are used to layer your body. These allow for a range of temperature and body moisture changes and are pretty lightweight overall. With the advent of modern materials this seems to be an ideal solution for inclusion in any bug-out bag; however, the cost of some of the new materials is rather high.
Materials: If cost is a factor or you decide to use your "surplus normal clothing", consider the materials of your clothing. "Cotton kills" is a common saying among outdoors and survival books and rightfully so. In most temperate climates I suggest a light weight wool pants and shirt. They are warmer in the winter than jeans and even the people who live in the Sahara Desert in the above 100 degree weather prefer wool. The scales on the outside of wool fibers break up surface tension, and resist wetting. The lanolin (oil) on wool also helps resist water, and in olden days, oiled wool sweaters (with extra lanolin added back after the material was made) were the standard for cold, wet conditions.
Clothing fit: Tight clothing in any situation restrict your movements, is very uncomfortable after wearing for awhile (i.e. emergency shelter) and can cause pressure sores and even boils in extended wear. I also suggest forgoing baggy clothing that seems to catch or get caught on every bush, stick or damaged building materials. I suggest forgetting the cargo pants, over-sized shirts and the billowing skirts.
What to Wear: The basic clothing to include in your kit is a long sleeve shirt and extra pants and with a change of underwear and socks. I also suggest a down vest (very warm, rather cheap, and compresses into a very small package) &/or a wool sweater. Deserts and even jungle mountains get cold at night. Hypothermia is a constant danger anytime the temperature gets as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Toss in rain and perhaps inability to have a fire that first night out. (Remember you are planning on surviving under extreme circumstances).
Gloves: Sturdy work gloves are recommended as it would be good to have a pair around for doing chores such as moving that debris out of the way, woodcraft in the unforgiving wilderness, and warmth.
Boots: Toss in a pair of boots that you've broken in and are completely comfortable in wearing because the blisters that you will form from trying to break in the boots in a survival scenario will present a danger. Military combat boots are probably going to be a good bet as well. They'll hold up in combat and they're extremely comfortable.
A belt: Again, simple, but overlooked. In addition to their original intent, which is still quite important (holding up your pants), the belt can give you a place to hang holsters, survival packs, and in worst case scenarios can be used as a very effective tourniquet or rigging.
A hat: Preferably a floppy hiking style hat. Assuming that your survival is spent out of doors a simple hat will work wonders to help prevent sunburn because a nasty sunburn on the back of ones neck can limit the range of motion to the head and cause a distracting bit of easily avoided discomfort. Consider a Gore-Tex hat if cost is not an issue fornot only will it keeps you dry, but you can also carry water in it.
A bandanna: This is one "survival tool" I suggest putting into any survival kit. Even if not worn, a bandanna can make for an excellent second hat, neck protection, worn as a dust mask, signaling tool, bandage, tourniquet or a number of other uses that may present themselves.
Basic principles of cold weather survival: It is more difficult for you to satisfy your basic water, food and shelter needs in a cold environment than in a warm environment. Even if you have the basic requirements, you must also have adequate protective clothing to survive.
You must not only have enough clothing to protect you from the cold, you must also know how to maximize the warmth you get from it. For example, always keep your head covered. You can lose 40 percent to 45 percent of body heat from an unprotected head and even more from the unprotected neck, wrists and ankles. These areas of the body are good radiators of heat and have very little insulating fat. "If your feet are cold, put a hat on" is a very old and true statement. The body will rob peripheral blood supply to keep the brain at a constant temperature thereby allowing the hands and feet to go cold (or even freeze) and then the extremities.
There are four basic principles to follow to keep warm. An easy way to remember these basic principles is to use the word "COLD" -
C - Keep clothing clean.
O - Avoid overheating.
L - Wear clothes loose and in layers.
D - Keep clothing dry.
C - Keep clothing clean. This principle is always important for sanitation and comfort. In winter, it is also important from the standpoint of warmth. Clothes matted with dirt and grease lose much of their insulation value. Heat can escape more easily from the body through the clothing's crushed or filled up air pockets.
O - Avoid overheating. When you get too hot, you sweat and your clothing absorbs the moisture. This affects your warmth in two ways: dampness decreases the insulation quality of clothing and as sweat evaporates, your body cools. Adjust your clothing so that you do not sweat. Do this by partially opening your parka or jacket, by removing an inner layer of clothing, by removing heavy outer mittens or by throwing back your parka hood or changing to lighter headgear. The head and hands act as efficient heat dissipaters when overheated.
L - Wear your clothing loose and in layers. Wearing tight clothing and footgear restricts blood circulation and invites cold injury. It also decreases the volume of air trapped between the layers, reducing its insulating value. Several layers of lightweight clothing are better than one equally thick layer of clothing, because the layers have dead-air space between them. The dead-air space provides extra insulation. Also, layers of clothing allow you to take off or add clothing layers to prevent excessive sweating or to increase warmth.
D - Keep clothing dry. In cold temperatures, your inner layers of clothing can become wet from sweat and your outer layer, if not water repellent, can become wet from snow and frost melted by body heat. Wear water-repellent outer clothing, if available. It will shed most of the water collected from melting snow and frost. Before entering a heated shelter, brush off the snow and frost. Despite the precautions you take, there will be times when you cannot keep from getting wet. At such times, drying your clothing may become a major problem. You can place damp socks or mittens, unfolded, near your body so that your body heat can dry them. In a campsite, hang damp clothing inside the shelter near the top, using drying lines or improvised racks. You may even be able to dry each item by holding it before an open fire. Dry leather items slowly. If no other means are available for drying your boots, put them between your sleeping bag shell and liner. Your body heat will help to dry the leather.
Survival Clothing: You'll probably never have to use animal skins for survival clothing. You might never lose your shoes and need to glue tree bark to your feet with pine sap for hiking. Still, knowing how to improvise a few basic pieces of survival clothing can make you more comfortable, and possibly save your life.
Usually, you'll do better to look first at what you have, before looking to kill animals for their skins, or weaving grass skirts. If you have a sleeping bag, it can double as a coat - just wrap it around you. Socks can be mittens, and garbage bags can be made into snow pants.
A garbage bag can also be a raincoat. Otherwise, ties bundles of grass tightly together along a string or strips of cloth, and then wrap it around your shoulders. This will repel a light rain. You can fashion a rain hood of birch bark as well.
In the desert you can make a sun-hat of large leaves, like those from a fan palm. String some together to wrap around your shoulders to prevent sunburn.
In the cold, insulation is the important principle here. You can stuff a jacket, shirt, sweater or pants with dry leaves, milkweed down, bracken ferns or almost anything that creates a lot of "dead air space." It's better if you have two layers to sandwich it between, but being itchy is better than being frozen in any case.
In a jam, you can also use the flat leaves of cattail plants to weave a vest that will block the wind and some rain. Two bread bags full of milkweed down or other silky plant fibers make warm mittens (tie them at the wrists). A plastic bag full of the same could be tied onto your head as a hat.
When trekking off into a wilderness area or preparing your bug-out or car kit, ensure your plans incorporate proper survival clothing. Getting caught with your pants down in a social gathering may be embarrassing, but getting caught with your pants down in a survival situation may cost you your life.

-Jerry B Blaine

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