The Bible Says Civilization Will Last 6000 Years

Police Departments Beg And Barter For Ammo While DHS Buys Up 1.6 Billion Rounds In Past Year

March 22, 2013

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By Gregory Gwyn-Williams, Jr.

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 2001 611

  

The nationwide shortage of ammunition has left many police departments scrambling to get their hands on the necessary rounds - with some even bartering among each other.
Meanwhile, Rep. Timothy Huelskamp (R-Kansas) says the Department of Homeland Security (DHS) has failed to respond to multiple members of Congress asking why DHS bought more than 1.6 billion rounds in the past year.
Police Chief Cameron Arthur of Jenks, Oklahoma says, "Ammunition and assault weapons in general have skyrocketed...In addition to the fact, not only is it a lot more expensive, but the time to get it could be six months to a year, or in some cases even longer."
Arthur says he is waiting on an order placed last October and that many departments have begun to trade and barter with each other because of the high demand.
"Most police departments are having a very difficult time even getting the necessary ammunition for handguns, shotguns and especially rifles," Arthur said.
"With the delay in ammunition, some departments are limiting the number of rounds they carry in their handgun because of the shortage of ammunition. We get to the point where it is difficult to have enough ammo to train and also equip the officers."
Chief Pryor of Rollingwood, Texas says of the shortage:
"We started making phone calls and realized there is a waiting list up to a year.  We have to limit the amount of times we go and train because we want to keep an adequate stock."
"Nobody can get us ammunition at this point," says Sgt. Jason LaCross of the Bozeman, Montana police department.
LaCross says that manufacturers are so far behind that they won't even give him a quote for an order.
"We have no estimated time on when it will even be available," LaCross says.
He worries that when ammunition is finally available the high price will squeeze the department's budget.
"The other options are to reduce the amount of training and things like that," he said.
The Hamilton County Sheriff's Department has also cut down on firearm training due to the high cost and low supply of ammunition.
"The concern over firearms availability and ammunition availability and potentials of gun control certainly has impacted the availability of ammunition purchased locally," Sgt. Jody Mays says.
He says the department has cut a third of their normal in service firearm training:
"It's forced us...to use ammunition more economically."
Police Chief John Mabry in Marinette, Wisconsin says, "Ammo is expensive and lot tougher to get. People don't have it in stock and it's back-ordered."
His colleague, Menominee Chief, Brett Botbyl agrees: "We're looking at a four to nine-month wait."
Some departments have even applied for grants to pay for the high-priced ammunition.
"The Florence Police Department is looking for some help filling its clips," reports Cincinnati.com
Chief Tom Szurlinski says the grant would go a long way given the price and limited supply of ammunition.

Preparing Garden Soil

Preparing Garden Soil

Duane Hatch,

USU Extension Horticulturist

HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET 01

1990

HG/H 01

A good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, near neutral, and has a lot of

decayed organic matter. The ideal is seldom available, so the good gardener may have to

improve what is at hand! Vegetables and other plants will grow satisfactorily with a wide

range of soil types from sand to clay if certain steps are followed for overcoming their basic

short-comings.

Utah garden soils are almost all alkaline to some degree. On a scale with pH 7 being

neutral, many vegetables will grow quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. Samples submitted
 to the USU Soil Testing Lab will determine the pH, salts concentration and level of nutrients. The cost is $10. Sampling information is available from the USU Extension office in your county, or from the Soil Testing Lab, 801-797-2217.

HAULING SOIL

In most instances you are better off to work with the soils that you have. You know

what their problems are. Hauled in soil may not be any better than that in your yard. 
It could be a source of noxious weeds that you don’t have. If you need to cover a rock or coarse gravel

bed or raise the level of a yard area, “fill” may be needed. It may or may not improve an area

in which you wish to grow plants.

TIMING

Many gardeners are impatient and damage the soil structure by rushing the season.

Soils that gardeners call “gumbo” or “adobe” are usually a loam type that one tries to prepare

too early.

Test this way: take a handful of soil from a 3 inch depth. Squeeze it firmly in the

hand. Drop it on a side-walk. Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill.

You’ll get hard clods and preparing a good seedbed will be difficult. As you use soil improving
techniques discussed later, you can hasten the gardening time.

MIXING

When the soil has dried sufficiently, spade or rototill to a depth of about 6–8 inches.

Garden soil doesn’t need to be “flour-fine.” Leave marble-sized particles and crusting will not

be as severe as with over prepared soil. You’ll need to use a rake to pulverize clods. Level

and compact the soil for a firm seedbed. The final soil surface should be as level as possible

for uniform water penetration.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT

Clay soils have the ability to hold moisture well (often too well) and usually contain

more nutrients than light soils. They dry slowly in the spring so early planting of crops is not

possible. Water penetration is slow so irrigation water often runs off instead of entering the

root zone.

Sandy soils are easy to work but have low water holding capacities, so plants may

suffer from moisture stress in hot weather. Nutrients may be lost as irrigation water moves

downward through the soil.

These almost opposite drawbacks of both soil types can be corrected by the same

technique-adding organic matter. Fine clay particles can be physically separated by coarse

organic material. Nutrient and water holding qualities of sandy soils can be increased. As the

organic matter breaks down, its components continue to have soil improving characteristics.

Begin by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of organic matter 6 to 8 inches deep. This

application will not last forever and you should plan to add about 2 more inches each year.

With heavy soils, you’ll need 2 or 3 years to see much of an improvement. Summer mulching

or compost addition will be helpful.

SOURCES OF ORGANIC MATTER

You will need a lot to do the job so look for abundant, inexpensive materials.

Leaves from deciduous trees may be gathered in the fall for composting and/or soil incorporation.

Needles from conifer trees may also be used.Bark, sawdust, shavings, and other wood

products are less likely to contain weed seeds than are manures.

Peatmoss is an excellent material, high in organic matter and somewhat acidic.

Cost is a major factor for the quantities needed.

Manure

may be available and is an excellent source of organic matter. If well

handled, it may contain substantial nutrients when used in sufficient quantities. It may also be

a source of viable weed seeds that survived the trip through the animal’s digestive tract.

Straw,

depending on the kind, may also create weed problems.

Grass clippings, green

manure crops and kitchen vegetable trimmings

may be used. These tissues are mostly

water, their cells are not mature and don’t contain the lignin and waxes which produce long

term soil improvement.

Grass clippings

are an excellent material to mulch the garden soil

surface to reduce weed problems and to conserve moisture. Don’t apply a lot at once. A ½

inch layer will dry out quickly and not get slimy.

ADDING NITROGEN

Large quantities of mature, woody type products such as sawdust, bark, leaves, straw,

etc., will promote nitrogen deficiency in plants because of their high carbon content. Over-

come this problem by adding a nitrogen fertilizer when incorporating them into the soil.
Ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen) is readily available and quite inexpensive. Use 1 pound (1pint) 
per 100 square feet for each 1 inch of woody mulch mixed with the soil. You may substitutepound of ammonium nitrate (34%) or ½ pound of urea (45%) for the one pound of ammonium sulfate.

Manures vary in their quality. If mixed with large amounts of bedding materials, theremay not be
 enough nitrogen to decompose it and feed the crop. Use one-half the nitrogen rate
suggested above. Use this one-half rate when a green manure crop is turned under also.
 If themanure is quite fresh and/or well protected from leaching by rains and other weather
 elements it may not need added nitrogen.

TOUGH CLAY SOILS

Although it may be expensive and difficult to apply, a 2-inch layer of sand, in addition

to the organic matter, will help your ability to garden in soils with a high clay

content. If sand is used without the organic matter, low grade concrete may be formed with

the fine clay particles acting as cement!

SOIL AMENDMENTS

Soil preparation information from more humid areas may suggest time to neutralize

acid soils.

 Lime is not needed in Utah soils because nearly all have an alkaline reaction.

Dolomite is another form of lime.

Gypsumis neutral in its reaction and will not acidify alkaline soils. It may be promoted as an
 “alkali fighter.” That reference is to the high sodium soils or “black alkali” areas where crops
 grow poorly, if at all. It is not needed on the general range of garden soils in Utah. Don’t expect 
gypsum to alter the soil structure and improve its workability. Use organic matter to do that.

CHANGING A LAWN TO A GARDEN

It is best not to mix the sod into the soil. A thatch layer can make it difficult to

establish a good seed bed. In addition, grass clumps may sprout and be a serious weed

problem.

Sod strippers can be rented that will make grass removal easier and minimize soil

losses. A sharpened shovel will cut the sod, but is a great deal of work if the area is large.

Skim the sod just below the crown and don’t remove an excessive amount of soil.

By saving the stripped sod, you have a good source of compost to add to the garden

later. Stack the sod, soil side up with a sprinkling of ammonium sulfate between layers. Cover

the whole pile with black plastic to kill the sod and promote decomposition.

Once the lawn has been removed, follow the soil preparation steps listed earlier

Old Post Reminder of Mask Requirements for Pandemic

27 Apr 2009 /
http://www.utahpreppers.com/2009/04/...aredness-info/ Family Preparedness, Pandemic Preparedness, Personal Preparedness
Since my post from yesterday regarding Pandemic Preparedness in light of the current Swine Flu outbreak, I’ve talked to several other preppers and want to provide our readers with more information. Specifically I want to share some other/better mask information, some great links for info on the virus spreading and to discuss sheltering in/quarantine a bit more.

First, to masks. I previously recommended that everyone have several N95 masks in their preps. Having talked with several prepping experts today including a couple who sell masks, I have some additional recommendations for you.
N95 Masks

First, the consensus is still that N95 masks are completely satisfactory to have in your preps. The main issues with N95 Masks are regarding donning the mask. Several points were made to me about this today. First, when you don the mask, you MUST make sure that there is a good seal of the mask to your face. This usually means adjusting the nose bridge so that it fits properly on your face. If you don’t have a good seal then the mask is useless to you. Second, make SURE that your hands are clean and sanitized before you handle the mask. If you have the virus on your hands and then touch the inside of your mask to put it on, you’re just putting the virus right in your airway. Finally, and this is something we learned some time ago, for children - you can cut the bottom of the adult N95 mask off to custom fit it to your child’s face. This is actually what my wife and I were taught to do by the Oncologists for our daughter with Leukemia. You can order N95 masks from this link (or lots of other places as well).
N99 Masks

N99 masks are more expensive than N95 masks. They do a slightly better job of killing viruses and (from what I’ve learned today) they tend to adjust and fit better on your face. The picture above is of someone wearing an N99 mask. You can order N99 masks from this link (or lots of other places as well).
Triosyn T-5000-V Respirator Mask

The Triosyn mask is a much more expensive solution but is a proactive approach. They have an antimicrobial protection system built into them, are fluid resistant, have an activated carbon layer to filter out odors and a one way valve ventilation system. The ventilation system makes it easier to wear for extended periods of time because it is much easier to exhale from. It also has an inner seal along with two adjustable head straps and an adjustable nose piece. It has about a 5 year shelf life and is good for 24 hours of use. It is one of the only masks that actually kills viruses instead of just filtering them out. You can order them through this link (or lots of other palces as well).
Panic Buying

The panic buying has already started. Here in Utah, many stores are already out of them. I went by a couple stores today and they were sold out, while I was at Wal-Mart looking 3 other people came to where I was looking for masks. Many online vendors (including the ones I’ve talked to today) are reporting that they have had a HUGE demand the last couple days and are sold out.
They also said that they fully expect to be re-stocked within the next 48 hours. Masks are the new ammunition - they’re going to be pretty tough to find before too long! With all the links above, I would do what I could to find out from a site whether they had masks in stock before I placed an order with them.
Masks in General

Let’s put all this in perspective. What do you need masks for anyway? There a only a couple COMMON times you’ll need them during a Pandemic:

• In Public
  • Anytime you are out in public during an actual pandemic/epidemic (which point we are NOT to yet!) you will want to be wearing a mask, eye protection and possibly gloves. You’ll also want to be armed with sanitizing spray and wash.
• Initial Quarantine
  • If you start an in home quarantine then you will want everyone to wear masks and take serious protective precautions for the first 48 hours. This is to identify whether anyone in the quarantine is already infected and is going to come down sick. Once you’ve determined that nobody in the quarantine is a carrier you should be safe to un-mask but should still maintain very sanitary practices.
• Around someone sick
  • If you have to work around someone who is sick (i.e. a member of your quarintine contracts the virus - like your child) you will want to take multiple precautions. Isolate the person in a seperate room, hang heavy plastic over the doorway to prevent active airflow, don protective gear including mask, goggle, gloves, apron, shoe covers anytime you must enter the room.

Again, these are the most common times you’ll need a mask. If you live in an area that has had a breakout, I would wear a mask anytime I was out in public. If you initiate a quarantine, once you’ve gone through the first 48 hours you should be fine in your home without a mask and even outside - as long as you are not near other people. My perspective is kind of skewed since I live in the country - there are very few people here. If I quarantine I fully expect I’ll be out working on my garden most of the time.

Generally speaking, little kids DO NOT like to wear masks! (we have some personal experience with this) I would advise you to tell your kids that you’re going to teach them about some current events and some plans in case certain things happen. Have them wear a mask while you’re talking, make it last about an hour. Have a fantastic dessert for them if they keep their mask on. Then do it for half an hour each day for the next five days. By this point they won’t freak out about the mask, they won’t fight it quite as much.
Sanitizing

Anytime you’ve handled something that might have exposed your hands to the virus, you should vigorously scrub your hands - preferably with anti-bacterial soap. You should be using an alcohol based sanitizer pretty much anytime you handle something that might have been exposed - door handles, paper, hand rails - anything someone might have sneezed on or touched after sneezing. Again, this is only if you are in an at-risk situation like a breakout in your state.

Other ways you can sanitize are to get spritzer spray bottles and fill one with isopropyll alcohol and another with bleach. Spraying things like door handles with either or both of these will kill most germs.
Utah status

Since we’re a Utah blog we’ll discuss the status of the outbreak in Utah. As of now, Utah has not had any reported cases of the Swine Flu. The state CDC directors and other government officials have met to review Utah’s action plan should cases be found here. They stress that currently Utah is in an “emergency PREPAREDNESS” stage, not an actual Emergency stage. As of now, no schools have been closed or are planning to close. They do advise the following though:

They’re asking people with respiratory symptoms to stay at home but to go to a doctor if they have the serious hallmarks of flu — like a fever, muscle aches, exhaustion, chills, sweats and headaches –not just a cold.

“Well, I think you have to use common sense. You know we’re subject to colds, to respiratory illnesses all the time. I think though, if I were running a fever, had muscle aches and felt unusually tired along with a respiratory illness, yeah, I’d go to the doctor,” Dr. Sundwall said.

World Status

As of right now in the U.S. NOBODY has died from the virus. Many have come down with it but they’re being reported as “mild cases”. However, as of right now 103 people have died in Mexico from the swine flu.
There is so much going on with this worldwide that any status would be outdated as soon as I posted it. There are a few good resources to check out though.

• Breaking News Online’s Twitter feed is a really good source of worldwide pandemic status. I suggest following them if you use Twitter.
• The World Health Organization’s Disease Outbreak News
• You can also follow Healthmap for updates on swine flu outbreaks. They also have a great map of where diseases have been reported.
• Whether you use twitter or not, you can track the #swineflu hashtag here - this will tell show you any tweets posted using #swineflu
• Thisinteractive timeline map will give you an ongoing history tracking outbreaks of swine flu
• This Google Map shows where in the world outbreaks have been reported (zoom all the way out to see the world)
• First hand experiences of the swine flu from Mexico

Don’t Panic, Just Prepare!

There seems to be a lot of fear out there about this, the news seems to be feeding that fear. The information in the last section of this post could be scary. But we need not panic! We’re Preppers, we look to things like this as stuff we thought might happen! The purpose of this post is NOT to scare you. It’s merely to help you get prepared for what might come. We’re trying to provide you with information so that you don’t have to be scared.

The prudent thing to do right now is review your preps - make sure you’re ready for an extended stay at home. If you have to self-quarantine at home, are you ready to be there for a while? What if this virus mutates and turns into a pandemic? Are you prepped for the grid to go down? Are you prepped for other services to be interrupted? Take inventory, make sure your 3 month supply is fully stocked. Make sure you have fuel, food, water and pandemic preps. Have a family action plan in case there is a breakout in your area.

Always, always remember: If you are prepared, you SHALL NOT FEAR! As Preppers we’re ready for this - whether it happens or not.

Food Storage Meatless Sausage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HReSTeVbaxM

VEGETARIAN BREAKFAST SAUSAGE

Makes 4 Large Patties

1 cup uncooked oatmeal
3 egg whites or 2 eggs or equivalent
1 teaspoon ground sage
1 teaspoon ground fennel
1/2 teaspoon ground rosemary
1/2 teaspoon dried parsley
1/2 teaspoon dill
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 – 3 cups vegetable stock

This simple recipe was adapted from a WWII recipe for meatless sausage. Mix all ingredients except the vegetable stock and form into four patties. Oil a non-stick skillet or use non-stick cooking spray and brown the patties over medium heat.

Add enough vegetable stock to cover the patties and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Remove patties from the liquid, drain, and re-brown before serving.

The trick to this recipe is to make the patties properly. If you pack them too tightly, the middle becomes glutinous. If they are not packed tightly enough they will fall apart. If you are not going to use the patties right away, do not re-brown them after boiling; save the re-browning until just before serving. They will keep for several days in the refrigerator.

The following was reported by a reader: Wow! I have to say, I’m impressed — and I’m not a vegetarian, but a typical “pork fat rules” kind of gal when it comes to breakfast meats/sides. My husband and I are innkeepers and fairly frequently have guests who are vegetarians. In a quest to find a substitute for bacon or sausage, I discovered this recipe. I just tried it and was very pleasantly surprised. It actually has a very similar texture as regular pork sausage. The seasonings were well balanced — though I think next time I will add some chopped fresh garlic.

I made them using Egg-Beaters Original. And, just for reference, the mixture is still quite runny when mixed together (not possible to “form” into patties), so I used a 1/4-cup measuring cup — packed them semi-tightly and then “dumped” them into my skillet — slightly flattening them with the back of the measuring cup. ….. After the first browning, I simmered them in the veggie broth on one side for 10 minutes, flipped for the remaining 10 minutes and drained on paper towels. For the second browning, I used a cast iron skillet with a little Canola oil. They came out just perfectly!!

From: http://www.bigoven.com/19411-Vegetar...22-recipe.html

[Your editor tried the oatmeal version of breakfast sausage using Bob’s Red Mill Steel Cut Oats. The flavor and texture were both excellent. It appears that with the steel-cut oats, there is no problem with how the patties are formed. The texture will be good, but for a less chewy sausage, simmer a few extra minutes in the vegetable broth. Using extra-large eggs, one egg plus one egg white added just the right amount of binding liquid.]

http://www.rffriends.org/wpx/?p=1276