SELECTING AND USING ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

SELECTING AND USING ORGANIC FERTILIZERS


INTRODUCTION

Homeowners recognize the need for timely nutrient applications to promote vigorous
plant growth in landscapes and gardens. These nutrients may be supplied by either organic or inorganic fertilizers, or a combination of materials. Many nursery and garden supply stores now stock a wide variety of organic fertilizers. In addition, many organic materials are produced around the home, or can be obtained at little or no cost from livestock operations, municipal green waste collection centers, and local landfills. Virtually any organic material can be used as a fertilizer; however, materials vary considerably in the concentration of plant nutrients they contain and the rate at which these nutrients are released for plant use. Therefore, some organic fertilizers are better for certain situations than others, and different materials need to be applied at different rates to supply the correct amount of plant nutrients.A common misconception is that organic fertilizers are safer for plants and the environment than inorganic (chemical) products. Improper organic fertilizer application can also contribute to surface and ground water pollution, may induce a plant nutrient deficiency or toxicity, or cause salt burn. Properly used, both organic and inorganic fertilizers are safe for plants and the environment. The purpose of this guide is to provide general selection and use information for organic fertilizers.

DETERMINING NUTRIENT NEEDS
Nutrient needs vary widely depending on soil conditions, previous fertilizer and organic matter additions, and the type of plants grown. The best way to determine which nutrients are needed and in what amounts is to test the soil. A soil test (cost: $10.00 to $40.00 per sample) is recommended every two to three years for landscapes and gardens. Sample soils more frequently if you have problems. See your County Extension Agent for instructions on how to collect soil samples and where to send them for analyses.

A soil test report will be accompanied by interpretations and nutrient recommendations for your specific conditionS. Nitrogen is the most common nutrient needed in home landscapes and gardens. Vegetable nitrogen requirements are designed to produce optimum yields in a garden setting.

Plants General requirements Recommendation Ornamentals

Low:............xeriscapes, natural areas.....0 to 1 lb of nitrogen/1000 sq ft
Intermediate:...standard landscapes...........2 lbs of nitrogen/1000 sq ft
High:...........lower beds, new landscapes....2 -4 lbs of nitrogen / 1000 sq ft

Turf*...........low maintenance...............0-1 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
Intermediate maintenance......2-3 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
High maintenance....................4 to 6 lbs of nitrogen/1000 sq ft


Vegetables**
Low: peas, beans. 1 to 2 lbs of nitrogen / 1000 sq ft

Intermediate: asparagus, beet, carrot melon,
cauliflower, broccoli,
Brussels sprout, celery, 2 to 3 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
pepper,tomato,lettuce
radish,spinach,turnip,

squash,pumpkins

2 High: onion,sweet corn, potato 4 to 6 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft

*Split the total amount of nitrogen into 2 or more separate applications made over the growing eason.To prevent burning do not apply more than 1 ½ pounds of nitrogen/1000 sq feet n a single application.

**For high nitrogen requirement vegetables, apply the intermediate recommendation before lanting, then broadcast or band additional nitrogen after plants are well established (seetext under fertilizer application methods).


SELECTING AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER
The numbers on an organic fertilizer label refer to the concentration (percent) of three major nutrients in the material:

nitrogen (or N),
phosphate (or P2O5),
potassium (potash, orK2O) .

For example, a 6-12-0 fertilizer (bone meal) contains:

6% nitrogen,
12% phosphate (P2O5), and 0% potash (K2O).

One-hundred pounds of this material would contain 6 lbs of nitrogen (100 x 0.06), 12 pounds of phosphate (100 x 0.12) and no potash.

Fertilizer labels on organic products have been standardized so that the concentration of nitrogen, phosphate and potash always appear in thesame order on the front of the package.

Othercommon organic fertilizers are listed below. Many organic fertilizers also contain other nutrients like sulfur, iron, and zinc; however, concentrations of these are usually not given on the label because levels are either too low or too variable to be specified. In addition to supplying nutrients, regular use of organic fertilizers also increases soil organic matter levels which improves soil physical properties like water holding capacity, drainage and tilth (the physical condition of soil related to structure and the ease of tillage).

FERTILIZER RATE CALCULATION

Fertilizer needed = X lbs of nutrient/1000 sq. ft × 1 lb fertilizer/ Y lb nutrient
× Z sq. feet area
.
FERTILIZER APPLICATION METHODS
Organic materials can be broadcast on the surface and tilled or watered into soil, or
applied in a narrow band on or beneath the surface. A common fertilizer spreader will often work well for applying small quantities of organic fertilizer. Two main types of broadcast applicators are available:

the drop spreader and the rotary spreader Most drop spreaders are capable of applying a wide range of rates. however, the path spread is limited to the width of the unit (normally 18 inches to (three feet) rotary spreader may

!!!CAUTION!!!
Many organic materials contain high levels
of salts. These salts will burn plants if
organic materials are over-applied.

Broadcast organic materials in a 5 to 10 foot wide path but with less uniformity and rate control than drop spreaders. If necessary, screen the material before spreading to remove large particles. Spreaders are adjustable for different fertilizer materials and rates of application. The spreader manufacturer will list calibration settings for various inorganic fertilizers. The gardener must calibrate these spreaders for organic fertilizer materials. Adjust the spreader to a relatively high setting. Place two or three pounds of organic material in the hopper and proceed to spread this amount in a continuous straight path. Note the width of the spread path and the distance traveled to broadcast all of the material. Calculate the rate of application and compare this to the rate needed. For example, if your spreader broadcasts a five foot wide path and you traveled 20 feet to empty three pounds of compost, the rate of application would be three pounds per 100 square feet (5 ft by 20 ft), or approximately 30 pounds of compost per 1000 square feet. Compare this to the rate of compost needed and if necessary adjust the spreader and calibrate again.

Because of their relatively low nutrient content, organic fertilizers are applied at much higher rates than inorganic fertilizers. Therefore, even at the highest spreader settings you may have to make two or more passes over an area to apply the required amount of material. Once a spreader is calibrated for a specific nutrient rate and organic fertilizer keep a record of the setting for future use with this material. Avoid streaking caused by skips and overlap by applying one-half of the fertilizer while traveling in one direction and the remaining one-half while traveling in a perpendicular direction. This method of application is especially important for turf fertilization where streaking is
common.

An alternative method of broadcasting large quantities of organic material is to space piles of the material throughout the area and spread the piles out uniformly using a garden or leaf rake.

Banding is a convenient way to make in-season fertilizer applications to high nitrogen requiring vegetables like corn . Use an organic fertilizer with rapid nutrient availability when banding. To band an organic fertilizer, first calculate the amount of material needed for the area as if you were going to broadcast the material. Divide this amount by the number of plant rows in the area to determine the amount of organic fertilizer to apply for each row. Make narrow furrows six to eight inches away from the base of the plants, two to three inches deep. Distribute the organic material evenly in the furrow and cover with soil. Liquid and foliar fertilizer applications can be made with water soluble products like fish emulsion or seaweed extract. There is a potential for leaf burning with liquid applications, so follow product label instructions carefully. Manure or compost tea can also be used as a source of liquid fertilizer. Partially fill a burlap or cloth bag with manure or compost and submerge for several days in a bucket of warm water. The resulting “tea” can be applied directly to the soil or foliage of plants.


Average nutrient concentrations and rates of availability for various organic materials.


Material %Nitrogen %Phosphate %Potash Availability* Notes**
Alfalfa hay 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 slow/mod.
Bone meal 1-6 11-30 0 moderate alkaline
Blood meal 12 1-2 0-1 rapid acidic
Cottonseed meal 6 3 1 slow acidic
Composts 1-3 1-2 1-2 moderate alkaline

Feather meal 12 0 0 moderate
Fish meal 6-12 3-7 2-5 rapid acidic Grass clippings 1-2 0-0.5 1-2 moderate
Hoof/horn meal 12-14 1.5-2 0 moderate alkaline
Kelp 1-1.5 0.5-1 5-10 moderate zinc, iron
Leaves 1 0-0.5 0-0.5 slow
Legumes 2-4 0-0.5 2-3 moderate
Manures: Cattle 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 moderate weed seed
Horse 1-2 0.5-1 1-2 slow weed seed
Swine 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 rapid
Poultry 3-4 1-2 1-2 rapid
Sheep 3-4 0.5-1 2-3 moderate weed seed
Pine needles 0.5 0 1 slow acidic
Sawdust 0-1 0-0.5 0-1 very slow
Sewage sludge 2-6 1-4 0-1 moderate zinc, iron
Seaweed extract 1 2 5 rapid zinc, iron
Straw/corn stalks 0-0.5 0-0.5 1 very slow
Wood ashes 0 1-2 3-7 rapid


*Approximate rate of nutrient release from the material.
**Special properties or characteristics of the material.


Utah State University Extension is an affirmative action/equal employment opportunity employer and educational organization. We offer our programs to persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex,religion, age or disability. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30,1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Robert L. Gilliland, Vice-President and Director,Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University, Logan, Utah.

It's Friday, We need a smile!

They had a plan. Do you?

Cooking with your Food Storage: Use It or Lose It!

This is an article by Kim Grant for the Deseret News on March 3, 2011. Great article and I just had to share.

By following prophetic counsel to store food for years, there is shelf after shelf of No. 10 cans to show for it. But one of the toughest hurdles of all for food storage may be knowing how to actually use it when the time comes. It won't help to wait until that first emergency, either, so learn how to use it now so you won't be "losing" it later.

The most important rule is to make sure that there aren't just basics. Don't rely on being able to eat 40 pounds of what. Most stomachs can't tolerate a diet of only one main staple. So even though it's temping to create a food storage supply one item at a time, it's better to keep a balance. For instance, supplement your storage with spices and sweeteners like honey so your taste buds won't get food "fatigue." Also, stock commercial canned items your family already eats.

Creating a cache of food is only the first step--the second is learning how to use it. A few fun ideas include having a "food storage" night once a month to practice cooking and train your family for the unique tastes and textures that cooking with food storage can entail. Another idea is to make it a game. Just type up the names of basic items, cut them up and put them in a bag and let someone choose one. Then go online or reference a food storage cookbook to decide what they can make out of it.

With that in ind, here's a quick and tasty recipe to get you thinking about your food storage in a different, more positive way.

Food Storage Shepherd's Pie

2 cups canned beef chunks
1 can green beans
1 can corn
1 can cream mushroom soup
3 tbsp dried onion flakes
salt and pepper to taste
Potato flakes mixed to consistency with evaporated milk or water

Mix the first five ingredients and place in dutch oven or casserole dish. Top with reconstituted potatoes. Bake at 325 degrees for 30 minutes of until heated throughout.

Tactical Medicine

I think that everyone who thinks of survival has thought many times about what tactical items they may need to give aid to anyone who has been injured in a tramatic situation. It may be in a bug-out-situation, in a patrol, or in a secure retreat location during pandemic, or other hypovolemic situation. Most if any have given any sort of thought on how to perform basic life savinging medical procedures regarding exanguination. Sure a minor surgical kit might be beneficial or Lactated Ringers intravenous solutions would help out. However few individuals actually know how to use these items.

One of the best books for any form of survival medicine would be "Ditch Medicine", available from Paladin Press. Another one is "Emergency War Surgery Handbook". Don't be decieved thinking that these and many other sources of information are concerned with injuries that not only occur in combat situations, but any situation where bodily fluid loss of any kind becomes life threatening. Accidents and injuries happen all of the time.

As a medically and trauma trained individual,I have found that there are 3 basic steps involved in all types of tactical medicine, regardless of injury type, location, or severity. Those are 1. Stop the bleeding, 2. Start the breathing, 3. Check Circulation and 4. Treat for Shock, the silent killer. The first steps are self explanatory. There are many different ways to accomplish this, and be advised this is only one option. The reader should also be advised to become sufficiently TRAINED in these proceedures before attempting them.

If you find yourself in a tactical situation (patrol, under attack, E&E situation)and the injury damages an artery which is spurting blood, or another injury where an extremity is severely damaged and hemoraging one may use a tourniquet such as the Combat Application Tourniquet (CAT) placed approx 2-4 inches above the bleeding site. Every member should have one of these on their body at all times during a Bug Out/Patrol situation, and preferably in a unit standardized location. Doing this keeps the injured individual able to keep their finger on the trigger and remain in the fignt.

“The best preventive medicine is overwhelming firepower.” Contrary to popularly-held beliefs, (which I was originally taught) recent studies from Iraq have shown that tourniquets can be left on for days without irreparable tissue damage occurring below and on the application site. I don't believe that I would leave a tourniquet on for that long but a few hours to return to a safe location, or defeat a hostile threat, will obviously not hurt anything.

Once the firefight stops or the person is evacuated back to a secure location you can begin to treat the wounded area for any other injuries and infection. For example you could now clamp off blood vessels or place wet packed gauze into the site to reinforce any clotting that may or may not have occurred already. Never remove ANY blood stopper or other type bandage that has a clot attached to it, or you will start the bleeding all over again. It is better to leave the original bandage on, until difinitive medical care can be obtained. However, you may have to take the risk of further bleeding if the site has not been cleaned sufficiently, and infection is a real possibility AND Definative Medical Care is not available. If definitive medical attention cannot be obtained with in a few hours you may find yourself fighting tremendeous infection.

After you have dressed the wound you can SLOWLY release the pressure on the tourniquet constantly checking for any uncontrolled bleeding. There are toxic acids in the lower extremety of the location of the TQ, which MUST be released slowly back into the system, or the patient may revert into a septic shock type situation. If the bleeding persists, you then can keep adding your dressings as needed until the bleeding is fully controlled.

If you have been trained, You could also use some suture material to actually tie the vein itself off or clamp it with a hemostat, this will completely stop the bleeding and if done properly will allow for the tourniquet to be removed. This is a temporary solution though. If the artery is ligated, The ara of the ligation should be available for the surgeon to re-anastamose the artery at a later time so ligatures could be placed on both ends of the artery to make it easier for the surgeon to find. This would have no adverse affect on the affected limb as far as circulation is concerned, in the case of a venous ligature because there are usually a number of duplicate veins inside each limb. If this were an artery you could still tie it off, however you would have to be extremely careful that you are 100% certain there is a backup artery available to supply that limb or body part with fresh blood. A simple chart of blood vessels in the human body would be invaluable at this point. Also most times, if the artery is severed across the diameter it will slip up into the surrounding tissue causing difficulty finding it without further trauma. If it is damaged along the lateral length of the artery, it will stay in place. Be carful that you do as little damage to the end of the artery, as damage will have to be removed before reanastamosis is performed. Arteries will only spurt from the proximal end so usually only one clamp is needed to stop the spurting.

Another thing to remember in a survival situation is that no matter how much you clean everything ,with the limited number of supplies you will have on hand you will never be able to obtain 100% sterilization. Do not spend excess time trying to sterilize something when just 15 minutes or less will suffice. but the key here is to be able to get the patient difinative care as soon as possible, and keep the wound as clean as possible in the first place.

Another important item to note is how exactly does one start an intravenous (IV) line? We all realize that IV fluids, especially when someone has been bleeding or is still bleeding, are very important to combat shock. However most people have no idea how to actually start an IV. If you have been trained and practiced this proceedure it is very simple. It would be well to learn this art, before it is needed. One of the most important parts of starting an IV line actually occurs before you think about opening a needle/catheter packet. The size of the canula is very important. The rule of thumb is if there is large volume loss, you must use the largest canula that is available. Many time three or four sites are inserted at one time. The first and most important thing is to verify the expiration date of, and the contents of the bag you are going to use. If it is not crystal clear, don't chance using it, and the expiration date MUST be current.

Assemble everything prior to putting the needle in the arm/leg/forehead/wherever you can. Put the tube on the IV bag/bottle, “charge” the drip chamber by squeezing and releasing it, open the stop gate and drain all of the air out of the line, get tape items ready, place all of these items close to where you plan on inserting the IV line at. The place of administration must be chosen. If large amounts of fluids must be given, a site in the hand or foot is not sufficient. The area in the bend of the elbow is the smallest place available for large amounts of fluids, usually bilaterally. A trained RN or Medic can do cutdowns near the clavicals, but these are not available to the untrained person. Sterile proceedures should be done including sterile gloves and betadine/alcohol washing of the administration site. I prefer the Over-the-needle- catheter type of IV catheters because of the guage of the needle, and they will usually work in this areas. Many smaller people, or if you have to start an IV in the hand, will require a "butterfly" type needle because it is smaller, and will more readily fit into the vein lumen. Using this style of catheter all one must do is insert the needle and catheter combo into the vein by inserting the needle to one side of the vein while using the other hands index finger to stabilize the vein, and keep it from rolling. (THE NEEDLE/CATHETER MUST ALWAYS BE POINTING TOWARD THE HEART IN A VEIN. YOU CANNOT PLACE AN IV INTO AN ARTERY WITHOUT A PRESSURE BAG, AND THEN IT IS USUALLY DONE TO ADMINISTER WHOLE BLOOD PRODUCTS). Then slowly and carefully advance the needle into the side of the vein. When this is accomplished, one will feel a distinct "pop". Advance the catheter into the vein, making sure that it is not lodged against a valve. When the blood appears in the flash chamber the start has usually been acomplished. Then one simply uses one'w index finger to “push” the catheter off the needle and into the vein. You may have to manipulate the catheter insde the vein to give the greatest flow because of the position of the valves. Never, never move the needle in a rotation under the skin, and if you miss the start, you must begin the process all over again with a NEW needle/catheter. Make sure to hold the needle barrel with at least your thumb and middle finger and push only with your pointer finger on the catheter tab. Once this is done and the catheter can move no further into the vein, i.e. it is all the way against the skin. Now is the other tricky part, with your right hand place the IV tubing under your arm and route it so the end just barely dangles in your palm with the tube wrapped above your thumb, take your left hand and apply firm pressure on the vein immediately above the catheter’s termination point. Slowly grasp the needle barrel with your right thumb and forefinger, at the same time grasp the colored plastic part of the catheter with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand while still holding pressure on the vein. Slowly twist the needle barrel to the right until it spins freely, now you can replace the barrel with the tubing connector of the IV line. Start the fluids flowing and you are completely done, except for taping up the site. At least one loop of tape should be wrapped around the catheter connection point and taped to the skin so as to "hold" the catheter "in", and an opsite adhesive bandage should complete cover and seal the site of the IV. If done properly the patient will not lose a single drop of their diminishing blood supply. In patients who are hypovolemic it would be the practice of running the first liter (bag) of Lactated Ringers, Normal Saline or other volume increacing IV solution full steam, wide open also known as bolus. This will rapidly expand the volume inside the blood vessels and allow the system a better chance of returning to normal. Do not however run more than 2 liters bolus unless advised by difinative competent medical control. I typically will estimate blood loss and run that much bolus and then run the rest of the fluid in that bag at [a slower] keep vein open (TKO) rate, which is usually one drop every second or so. I do this as slowly as I can while still keeping the vein open, if vitals start taking a dive I can readily switch back to bolus and give more fluids.

The only thing left to convey is to read and practice (pigs, both live and dead make good substitutes for humans in the present times) and become knowledgeable and comfortable with your medical skills should the need ever arise where you are forced to use them.

PLEASE NOTE:

I am not a licensed medical instructor/nor practicianer, and as such am not advocating or instructing ANYONE in medical proceedures. It is solely an informational article to be used for entertainment purposes.

You should never admisister or start IV's unless you are trained by licensed, competant medical staff, and unless you have standing orders from a medical director and have been trained and certified by your own State or Local Government. These directions in no way what-so-ever suggest that an untrained or unauthorized person can EVER start an IV or administer IV therapy without directions of a Licenced Professional.

Preparing Garden Soil

A good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, near neutral, and has a lot of decayed organic matter. The ideal is seldom available, so the good gardener may have to improve what is at hand! Vegetables and other plants will grow satisfactorily with a wide range of soil types from sand to clay if certain steps are followed for overcoming their basic short-comings.

Utah garden soils are almost all alkaline to some degree. On a scale with pH 7 being
neutral, many vegetables will grow quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. Samples submitted to the USU Soil Testing Lab will determine the pH, salts concentration and level of nutrients. The cost is $10. Sampling information is available from the USU Extension office in your county, or from the Soil Testing Lab, 801-797-2217.

HAULING SOIL
In most instances you are better off to work with the soils that you have. You know
what their problems are. Hauled in soil may not be any better than that in your yard. It could be a source of noxious weeds that you don’t have. If you need to cover a rock or coarse gravel bed or raise the level of a yard area, “fill” may be needed. It may or may not improve an area in which you wish to grow plants.

TIMING
Many gardeners are impatient and damage the soil structure by rushing the season.
Soils that gardeners call “gumbo” or “adobe” are usually a loam type that one tries to prepare too early.

Test this way: take a handful of soil from a 3 inch depth. Squeeze it firmly in the
hand. Drop it on a side-walk. Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill. You’ll get hard clods and preparing a good seedbed will be difficult. As you use soil improving techniques discussed later, you can hasten the gardening time.

MIXING
When the soil has dried sufficiently, spade or rototill to a depth of about 6–8 inches.Garden soil doesn’t need to be “flour-fine.” Leave marble-sized particles and crusting will not be as severe as with over prepared soil. You’ll need to use a rake to pulverize clods. Level and compact the soil for a firm seedbed. The final soil surface should be as level as possible for uniform water penetration.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT
Clay soils have the ability to hold moisture well (often too well) and usually contain more nutrients than light soils. They dry slowly in the spring so early planting of crops is not possible. Water penetration is slow so irrigation water often runs off instead of entering the root zone.

Sandy soils are easy to work but have low water holding capacities, so plants may
suffer from moisture stress in hot weather. Nutrients may be lost as irrigation water moves downward through the soil. These almost opposite drawbacks of both soil types can be corrected by the same technique-adding organic matter. Fine clay particles can be physically separated by coarse organic material. Nutrient and water holding qualities of sandy soils can be increased. As the organic matter breaks down, its components continue to have soil improving characteristics.

Begin by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of organic matter 6 to 8 inches deep. This
application will not last forever and you should plan to add about 2 more inches each year. With heavy soils, you’ll need 2 or 3 years to see much of an improvement. Summer mulching or compost addition will be helpful.

SOURCES OF ORGANIC MATTER
You will need a lot to do the job so look for abundant, inexpensive materials. Leaves
from deciduous trees may be gathered in the fall for composting and/or soil incorporation. Needles from conifer trees may also be used. Bark, sawdust, shavings, and other wood products are less likely to contain weed seeds than are manures. Peatmoss is an excellent material, high in organic matter and somewhat acidic. Cost is a major factor for the quantities needed. Manure may be available and is an excellent source of organic matter. If well handled, it may contain substantial nutrients when used in sufficient quantities. It may also be a source of viable weed seeds that survived the trip through the animal’s digestive tract. Straw, depending on the kind, may also create weed problems. Grass clippings, green manure crops and kitchen vegetable trimmings may be used. These tissues are mostly water, their cells are not mature and don’t contain the lignin and waxes which produce long term soil improvement. Grass clippings are an excellent material to mulch the garden soil surface to reduce weed problems and to conserve moisture. Don’t apply a lot at once. A ½ inch layer will dry out quickly and not get slimy.

ADDING NITROGEN
Large quantities of mature, woody type products such as sawdust, bark, leaves, straw,
etc., will promote nitrogen deficiency in plants because of their high carbon content. Overcome this problem by adding a nitrogen fertilizer when incorporating them into the soil.

Ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen) is readily available and quite inexpensive. Use 1 pound (1 pint) per 100 square feet for each 1 inch of woody mulch mixed with the soil. You may substitute pound of ammonium nitrate (34%) or ½ pound of urea (45%) for the one pound of ammonium sulfate.

Manures vary in their quality. If mixed with large amounts of bedding materials, there may not be enough nitrogen to decompose it and feed the crop. Use one-half the nitrogen rate suggested above. Use this one-half rate when a green manure crop is turned under also. If the manure is quite fresh and/or well protected from leaching by rains and other weather elements it may not need added nitrogen.

TOUGH CLAY SOILS
Although it may be expensive and difficult to apply, a 2-inch layer of sand, in
addition to the organic matter, will help your ability to garden in soils with a high clay content. If sand is used without the organic matter, low grade concrete may be formed with the fine clay particles acting as cement!

SOIL AMENDMENTS
Soil preparation information from more humid areas may suggest time to neutralize
acid soils. Lime is not needed in Utah soils because nearly all have an alkaline reaction. Dolomite is another form of lime. Gypsum is neutral in its reaction and will not acidify alkaline soils. It may be promoted as an “alkali fighter.” That reference is to the high sodium soils or “black alkali” areas where crops grow poorly, if at all. It is not needed on the general range of garden soils in Utah. Don’t expect gypsum to alter the soil structure and improve its workability. Use organic matter to do that.

CHANGING A LAWN TO A GARDEN
It is best not to mix the sod into the soil. A thatch layer can make it difficult to
establish a good seed bed. In addition, grass clumps may sprout and be a serious weed
problem. Sod strippers can be rented that will make grass removal easier and minimize soil losses. A sharpened shovel will cut the sod, but is a great deal of work if the area is large. Skim the sod just below the crown and don’t remove an excessive amount of soil. By saving the stripped sod, you have a good source of compost to add to the garden later. Stack the sod, soil side up with a sprinkling of ammonium sulfate between layers. Cover the whole pile with black plastic to kill the sod and promote decomposition. Once the lawn has been removed, follow the soil preparation steps listed earlier.


Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET 01
1990 HG/H 01
Condensed and edited

Basics for Raising Backyard Chickens

Lowie and I were visiting our IFA store Saturday. They have chicks in stock. We have decided to purchase about 8 more: 4 Bantams and 4 Astrolorpes.

By: David D. Frame, DVM, Diplomate ACPV
Utah State University Extension Poultry Specialist

Backyard chicken keeping is increasing in popularity. There are many reasons for this. Perhaps it is to have a ready source of eggs and meat, or as a backyard help in pest control, or perhaps it is just because they are fun to watch. Whatever the reason,chickens can be a great source of enjoyment if properly managed and given appropriate care.

Get Your Chicks Off to a Good Start

Baby poultry cannot generate enough heat to sustain themselves. That is the reason the mother hen keeps the young under her wings. The process of getting chicks off to a good start is called brooding. The brooding period is roughly the first 3 to 4 weeks of a chick’s life. By then, most breeds are fully feathered and can generate enough heat on their own to get by.

Basic needs for brooding chicks are:

• Heat source, such as a 250 watt infrared light.Keep a temperature gradient from 110°F under the heat source to 84°F at edge of brooder ring.Decrease temperature about 5°F each week. However, if chicks appear too cold or hot, adjust accordingly.

• Clean water.

• Good quality chick starter feed.

• Clean litter (pine or cedar shavings are recommended).

• A circular confined area to keep the chicks from wandering away from the heat source

Chickens are very adaptable and no single best way exists to house them. Creative architectural construction may even be considered in building a “designer” chicken house in order to enhance the backyard landscape. Regardless of ultimate design, the
2 following practical considerations should be observed. The building must:

• Be large enough for proper air circulation (i.e.,ventilation), but small enough to keep from getting too cold and drafty in winter;

• Allow 1.5 to 2.0 ft2 (0.14 to 0.19 m2) floor space per adult chicken;

• Provide easy access to feed and water; and

• Provide nesting areas for hens in egg production.

Perches

Although not mandatory, it is usually a good idea to provide perches for the chickens. Perches will allow birds to stay off the floor – particularly as they
roost at night. Most breeds seem to enjoy spending time on perches. Manure will tend to accumulate in greatest concentration under the roost area, thereby helping to
keep the rest of the bedding material in the house cleaner. A good rule of thumb is to allow 6 to 10 inches (15 to 25 cm) of linear perch space for each chicken
housed.

Nest Boxes

Nest boxes are essential furnishings of any hen house because she will seek a secluded place to layher eggs. Properly constructed and maintained, nest boxes provide a clean environment for laid eggs and facilitate gathering them. Again, there are no hard and fast rules for nest box construction. Commercial boxes
are available from various retail sources, or you may construct your own.

• Nest box height and width should be 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm); depth should be at least 12 inches (30 cm).

• One nest box is required for each four to five hens. Place nest boxes no less than 18 inches (46cm) above the floor.

• A front panel, 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) high, is necessary to provide seclusion and keep eggs from rolling out of the nest.

• Maintain at least 2 to 3 inches of clean dry shavings in each nest box to reduce egg breakage and to minimize number of soiled eggs.

• A perch may be attached to each box to facilitate access, running parallel to the front of the box and located 6 to 8 inches out.

Don’t Forget the Water

Remember, the nutrient consumed in the greatest quantity by a chicken is water. A direct relationship exists between the amount of water a chicken drinks and
the amount of feed consumed. If inadequate water is available, not only will chickens decrease eating, but there will also be a negative effect on egg production
and growth.

Although types and designs of drinkers vary, the fact that fresh clean water must be present at all times should never be forgotten. Fountain-type drinkers have the advantage of being affordable and easily moved around; however, because the reservoir holds only a finite quantity of water, it is necessary to watch carefully
that they don’t become empty.

• Water should be changed frequently in order to prevent bacterial growth, over-warming (in summer), or freezing (in winter).

• A fountain-type drinker commonly available in most feed stores will hold 1 gallon of water. Each drinker will provide enough daily water for 12 to 15 adult chickens during cool weather and 6 to 12 during hot weather.

• Always provide at least two or three additional drinkers in excess of the estimated water consumption for the number of birds in the chicken house. This provides a buffer for a short term water supply in the event of spillage or
leakage. It also offers an opportunity for the more timid birds in the flock to satisfy their water needs without competing with more aggressive individuals for drinker space.

• When planning number of drinkers to place in the chicken house, consider that in cool weather each adult chicken will consume about 0.05 to 0.08 gallon per day; in hot weather, 0.08 to 0.16 gallon per day.

Feed Quality Is Important

• Feed quality will affect feed consumption. Ensure that the feed is not stale, rancid, or moldy.

• Immediately remove obviously moldy, rancid smelling or any other questionable feed. Such feed will, at best, not be eaten; and at worst, cause disease or nutritional deficiencies if consumed.

• Purchase feed as fresh as possible. Vitamins will start to degrade if finished feed is stored for prolonged periods. Plan your schedule so that new feed is purchased at least every 2 months.

• Always store feed away from heat, moisture, and direct sunlight. Protect from rodents.

Feeder Styles

Feeders come in a wide array of sizes and designs from egg carton lids for starting newly hatched chicks to sophisticated automatic adult feeding systems.Trough feeders are usually used to start off young chicks. Bucket feeders of various sizes are popular and appropriate for both growing and adult chickens. The advantage of bucket feeders is that they can store a few days’ worth of feed, thereby alleviating daily hand feeding; however, care must be taken not to let old feed accumulate in them and become stale and moldy. Clean and brush them out often. Use the appropriate size of
bucket feeder for the class of poultry being raised. Using too large of feeders with chicks will prevent them from being able to reach the feed. Also chicks might get
inside the lip of the feeder and not be able to get back out. Feeders with too narrow of a lip for adult birds will cause excessive spilling and wasted feed.

• Feeders should be raised off the ground, and generally positioned level with the mid to upper breast region of the chickens being fed.

• A good rule of thumb is to allow 1 linear inch of feeder space per chick and 2 to 3 linear inches per adult chicken.

• Always keep feeders in an area where it is protected from moisture, wild animals, and free flying birds, preferably inside the chicken house.

• Purchase feed from a reliable commercial feed manufacturer.

• It’s OK to let your chickens forage around for bugs and greens, but always provide them access to the appropriate type of formulated balanced feed as well. Totally “free-ranged” poultry will rarely be able to consume a proper balance and
quantity of nutrients necessary for their maximum rate of meat and egg production.

Feed Consumption Guidelines

There is great variation in feed consumption patterns of chickens depending on breed, feed source and environmental conditions. The following information,
however, serves as a guide for feeding large fowl breeds of poultry.

Meat-type strains (Commercial-type broilers,
roasters, “Cornish-Rock” crosses)
0-2 weeks. . . . . . . . . . 22-24% protein chick starter
2-4 weeks. . . . . . . . . . 20-21% protein grower
4 weeks to market . . . 18-20% protein finisher*

Layer strains (Commercial-type leghorns, brown egg
layers)
0 to 6 weeks. . . . . . . . 20-21% protein chick starter
6 weeks to prior to
egg production . . . . . . 16-19% protein pullet grower
or developer
At onset of egg
production. . . . . . . . . 16-18% protein layer diet**

Dual-purpose breeds (Plymouth Rock, Rhode Island
Red, New Hampshire, etc.)
0 to 6 weeks. . . . . . . . 20-21% protein chick starter
6 weeks to prior to
egg production. . . . . 15-19% protein pullet grower
or developer
At onset of egg
production . . . . . . . . . 16-18% protein layer diet**

*These recommendations are based on common protein levels for feeds available in most local feed stores. It is assumed that the finished feed is balanced for
energy, vitamins, and minerals in relation to specific protein content.

**Do not feed a layer diet to chickens not in egg production (too high in calcium).

Varmint Control

Maintain a rodent control program around the poultry house. When building the floor, integrating heavy gauge wire mesh beneath the subflooring is recommended to discourage entrance of predators and other varmints. Cover windows and vent openings with good quality poultry wire to keep out birds. Make sure doors and windows fit tightly. Caulk and seal all cracks and crevices. Small rodents can gain entry through holes the size of a nickel or quarter. Keep the poultry house locked to discourage theft and uninvited visitors.

House mouse. Average litter size is six and one female can have up to eight litters per year. Average range is 15 to 30 feet. A mouse can last longer without water than
a camel.

Lighting

Laying hens require at least 14 hours of light to maintain good egg production. Most experts recommend 16 hours of light per 24 hour period. Artificial lights wired into a timer will accomplish this during fall and winter, when daylight is decreasing. Decreasing daylight will cause hens to quit laying and go into a molt.

Egg Production

Hens do not need roosters present to produce eggs. Increasing day length, not the presence of males, is what stimulates egg production. A rule of thumb is that
four to five hens will supply two to four eggs per day during their production cycle. Pullets (young females) reach sexual maturity and are capable of laying eggs
when about 5 to 7 months of age; however, this can vary considerably depending on breed and strain of chicken.

Molting

Molting is a natural process that chickens go through. It is nothing more than a resting part of the physiological cycle of birds. During the molt the hen will go out of egg production and lose feathers. Under natural conditions, this occurs in the fall or winter. However, modern layer strains have been bred to maintain high egg production over a long period. Therefore, you may find your flock laying eggs and
losing feathers at the same time. The laying cycle causes the feathers to become worn and broken. After the molt,the hens will have a new covering of feathers. Hens
generally produce fewer eggs with each molt. Eggshell strength may also be reduced with each subsequent molt.

Be a Good Neighbor

• Chickens do not respect property lines. Keep your chickens enclosed and confined to your property.

• Properly dispose of used poultry litter. In many instances, used litter can be incorporated into the garden soil or composted; however, improper composting or storage may create excessive odor and fly problems. Proper composting requires careful management of moisture, aeration, and temperature.

• Although in most circumstances chickens pose a relatively low risk of giving disease to humans, there are a few infections that can be transmitted
back and forth. Proper care and handling of eggs and processing of poultry carcasses are critical to avoid problems.

• Past history has shown that diseases such as exotic Newcastle disease (END) can occur in the small flock poultry community. The discovery of END would have devastating economic consequences from death loss as well as the loss
of trade with other countries.

Always think about what you can do to protect your own birds and your neighbor’s birds from disease. ENJOY!

Poultry raising can be an inexpensive and fulfilling hobby and pastime. Good wishes in embarking on this exciting opportunity!

For additional information contact your county Extension agent or Extension poultry specialist.

References.

Frame, David D., Housing Backyard Chickens,AG/Poultry/2008-01pr,
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/public
ation/AG_Poultry_2008-01pr.pdf

Frame, David D., Principles of Feeding Small Flocks of
Chickens at Home, AG/Poultry/2008-02pr,
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/public
ation/AG_Poultry_2008-02pr.pdf

Leeson, S. and J. D. Summers, Commercial Poultry
Nutrition, 3rd ed. University Books, Guelph,
Ontario, Canada. ISBN 0-9695600-5-2. 2005.

Sainsbury, David, Poultry Health and Management,
Blackwell Science. ISBN 0-632-05172-8. 2000.

Is this true today? Yes, absolutely without a doubt !

"The Gods of the Copybook Headings" is a poem published by Rudyard Kipling in 1919, that foresaw the decline of his country's empire and attributed it to a loss of the old virtues, and to a general complacency entailing that "all men are paid for existing and no man must pay for his sins". The central message of the poem is that basic and unvarying aspects of human nature will always re-emerge in every society that gets complacent and self-indulging.

The "copybook headings" to which the title refers were proverbs or maxims, extolling virtues like honesty or fair dealing, that were printed at the top of the pages of 19th century British students' special notebook pages, called "copybooks". The schoolchildren had to write them by hand repeatedly down the page.


You get the drift...



The Gods of the Copybook Headings


AS I PASS through my incarnations in every age and race,
I make my proper prostrations to the Gods of the Market Place.
Peering through reverent fingers I watch them flourish and fall,
And the Gods of the Copybook Headings, I notice, outlast them all.

We were living in trees when they met us. They showed us each in turn
That Water would certainly wet us, as Fire would certainly burn:
But we found them lacking in Uplift, Vision and Breadth of Mind,
So we left them to teach the Gorillas while we followed the March of Mankind.

We moved as the Spirit listed. They never altered their pace,
Being neither cloud nor wind-borne like the Gods of the Market Place,
But they always caught up with our progress, and presently word would come
That a tribe had been wiped off its icefield, or the lights had gone out in Rome.

With the Hopes that our World is built on they were utterly out of touch,
They denied that the Moon was Stilton; they denied she was even Dutch;
They denied that Wishes were Horses; they denied that a Pig had Wings;
So we worshipped the Gods of the Market Who promised these beautiful things.

When the Cambrian measures were forming, They promised perpetual peace.
They swore, if we gave them our weapons, that the wars of the tribes would cease.
But when we disarmed They sold us and delivered us bound to our foe,
And the Gods of the Copybook Headings said: "Stick to the Devil you know."

On the first Feminian Sandstones we were promised the Fuller Life
(Which started by loving our neighbour and ended by loving his wife)
Till our women had no more children and the men lost reason and faith,
And the Gods of the Copybook Headings said: "The Wages of Sin is Death."

In the Carboniferous Epoch we were promised abundance for all,
By robbing selected Peter to pay for collective Paul;
But, though we had plenty of money, there was nothing our money could buy,
And the Gods of the Copybook Headings said: "If you don't work you die."

Then the Gods of the Market tumbled, and their smooth-tongued wizards withdrew
And the hearts of the meanest were humbled and began to believe it was true
That All is not Gold that Glitters, and Two and Two make Four
And the Gods of the Copybook Headings limped up to explain it once more.

As it will be in the future, it was at the birth of Man
There are only four things certain since Social Progress began.
That the Dog returns to his Vomit and the Sow returns to her Mire,
And the burnt Fool's bandaged finger goes wabbling back to the Fire;

And that after this is accomplished, and the brave new world begins
When all men are paid for existing and no man must pay for his sins,
As surely as Water will wet us, as surely as Fire will burn,
The Gods of the Copybook Headings with terror and slaughter return!

Rudyard Kipling
1919

More Effects of EMP- Got FOOD and WATER?

Some more effects of EMP

There will be no more fuel available. There will be no more food and water for purchase. There will be no more iPhone or internet. And if you do find these things, what will be the price? Your dollars will very likely mean nothing to anyone with common sense. The art of bartering will very quickly take on a new importance for your own survival.

If this event were to occur, you could count on a very prolonged period of great civil unrest, riots, theft and wide spread violence. Repairs will be very slow and new parts for the large generators and power plants will likely have to be manufactured overseas and delivered to the United States. Furthermore, these foreign factories would have to retool their machines to create the specific part that we need if they are not already our supplier. And that is if the other industrialized nations aren't effected, as well.

As for the military and police, you can expect high numbers of deserters, placing an even greater strain on the limited resources of government order. This is not meant as an insult to our uniformed personnel, but from my personal experience of being a New Orleans police officer before, during and after Hurricane Katrina, I witnessed 1/5 of the police department simply walk away the first day. Some chose to leave for family reasons while others left due to stress. I also saw how quickly those we entrust with public safety can become an armed street gang and simply take what you have at gun point. These are all valid topics to consider when speaking about an event such as an EMP or severe solar storm. These are valid points even when the disaster is very localized, such as Hurricane Katrina was.
If you would like to learn more details about the actual tests, continue reading below.

Traffic Lights

In testing the traffic lights, the Commission used the 170E controller which is in use in 80% of all signal intersections. They noted four different types of effects, depending on the power level of the electromagnetic pulse.
The following effects were observed:

1. Forced Cycle: At field levels of 1 to 5 kV/m, the light was forced to cycle from green to red without going through yellow. This is a transient effect that recovers automatically after one cycle.

2. Disrupted Cycle: At field levels of 5 to 10 kV/m, the normally programmed cycle times became corrupted and change to a cycle different from that originally programmed. The controller had either been damaged or needed to be manually reset.

3. No Cycle: At 10 to 15 kV/m, the side street lights at an intersection never turned green. The controller had been damaged.

4. Flash Mode: Also at 10 to 15 kV/m, the intersection went into a mode in which the lights in all directions were flashing. This mode can cause large traffic jams because traffic flow is severely reduced in this situation. The controller has either been damaged or needs to be manually reset.

Based on these results, it can be anticipated that an EMP will trigger moderate to severe traffic congestion in metropolitan areas. The traffic congestion may be exacerbated by the panic reactions possibly attendant to an EMP attack. None of the data predict or suggest life threatening conditions; conflicting green lights did not occur during the tests. All the observed effects would cause less traffic disruption than would a power outage, which results in no working traffic lights.

Automobiles

The potential EMP vulnerability of automobiles derives from the use of built-in electronics that support multiple functions within the vehicle.
With more than 100 microprocessors in modern vehicles, one might think that leaves newer cars more susceptible to being disrupted by an EMP, but due to higher standards in electromagnetic compatibility, this weakness has been mitigated.
The Commission tested a sample of 37 cars in an EMP simulation laboratory, with vehicle years ranging from 1986 through 2002. Automobiles of these vintages include extensive electronics and represent a significant portion of the vehicles on the road today.

Automobiles were subjected to EMP environments under both engine turned off and engine turned on conditions. No effects were subsequently observed in those automobiles that were not turned on during EMP exposure. The most serious effect observed on running automobiles was that the motors in three cars stopped at field strengths of approximately 30 kV/m or above. In an actual EMP exposure, these vehicles would glide to a stop and require the driver to restart them. Electronics in the dashboard of one automobile were damaged and required repair. Other effects were relatively minor. Twenty-five automobiles exhibited malfunctions that could be considered only a nuisance (e.g., blinking dashboard lights) and did not require driver intervention to correct. Eight of the 37 cars tested did not exhibit any anomalous response.

Based on these test results, the Commission expects few automobile effects at EMP field levels below 25 kV/m. Approximately 10 percent or more of the automobiles exposed to higher field levels may experience serious EMP effects, including engine stall, that require driver intervention to correct.

Trucks

As is the case for automobiles, the potential EMP vulnerability of trucks derives from the trend toward increasing use of electronics. The Commission assessed the EMP vulnerability of trucks using an approach identical to that used for automobiles. Eighteen running and non-running trucks were exposed to simulated EMP in a laboratory. The intensity of the EMP fields was increased until either anomalous response was observed or simulator limits were reached. The trucks ranged from gasoline-powered pickup trucks to large diesel- powered tractors. Truck vintages ranged from 1991 to 2003.

Of the trucks that were not running during EMP exposure, none were subsequently affected during the test. Thirteen of the 18 trucks exhibited a response while running. Most seriously, three of the truck motors stopped. Two could be restarted immediately, but one required towing to a garage for repair. The other 10 trucks that responded exhibited relatively minor temporary responses that did not require driver intervention to correct. Five of the 18 trucks tested did not exhibit any anomalous response up to field strengths of approximately 50 kV/m.


Sources:

• NASA, “Solar Superstorm”. 2003

• Commission to Assess the Threat to the United States of EMP Attack, 'Executive Report' 2004

• Commission to Assess the Threat to the United States of EMP Attack, 'Critical Infrastructure'

• Washington Dept. of Health, Office of Radiation Protection, “Electromagnetic Pulse"

- Kevin Hayden

What is EMP?

Electromagnetic Pulse Attack

According to the 2004 Commission to Assess the Threat to the United States of EMP Attack (Executive Report), “Several potential adversaries have or can acquire the capability to attack the United States with a high-altitude nuclear weapon-generated electromagnetic pulse (EMP). A determined adversary can achieve an EMP attack capability without having a high level of sophistication.”

It goes on to briefly address the effects, “EMP is one of a small number of threats that can hold our society at risk of catastrophic consequences. EMP will cover the wide geographic region within line of sight to the nuclear weapon. It has the capability to produce significant damage to critical infrastructures and thus to the very fabric of US society...” The Commission's chairman has testified that within one year of such an attack, 70% - 90% of Americans would be dead from such causes as disease and violence. It is also highly plausible that many Americans would die of starvation due to the interruption of the national food supply.

According to the Washington Department of Health, Office of Radiation Protection, “A 1.4 Megaton bomb launched about 250 miles above Kansas would destroy most of the electronics that were not protected in the entire Continental United States.”
So, as you can see, both a massive solar storm and an EMP event could quite possibly end civilization as we know it. I know that sounds drastic, but in the United States and other technologically advanced countries, how would the mass population handle a prolonged event with very little or quite possibly, no electricity? As the Commission noted, our society is utterly dependent on our electrical grid for everything.

Trucking and transportation
Gas stations and refineries
Information and communications
Commercial production of food and goods
Water purification and delivery
Most of our military capability

These are only a handful of things that we take for granted because they are always there. If the gas stations were out of order, and no refineries able to produce more fuel, can you imagine how quickly our “civilized society” would break down? With that event alone, grocery store shelves become empty within a matter of days and farmers can't transport any goods. If you were not aware, grocery stores do not stock much extra produce or food “in the back of the store.” In order to maintain a high profit margin, stores maintain only a few days worth of staples until another shipment arrives. This not only conserves space, but allows for them to keep their overhead lower, among other things.

Once the gas stops flowing and the shelves are wiped clean, how long will your neighbor remain civil?

Several tests and scenarios have shown that cell phones will be one of the first tell-tale signs of an electromagnetic event because of the enormous percentage of the population carrying one. If the power grid were to simply go down, this wouldn't effect your cell phone. Depending on your location, your local cell towers probably have back-up power systems, as well. The cell towers, backup power and your cell phone will all be disabled after an electromagnetic event, offering you a clue as to what has just happened.

The Commission went on to assess just how our society would be impacted from an EMP event, including how well cars and trucks can handle the burst of electromagnetic waves.

The Automobile and Trucking Infrastructures
[brief excerpt from the Commission's 2008 report]
"Over the past century, our society and economy have developed in tandem with the automobile and trucking industries. As a consequence, we have become highly dependent on these infrastructures for maintaining our way of life.
Our land-use patterns, in particular, have been enabled by the automobile and trucking infrastructures. Distances between suburban housing developments, shopping centers, schools, and employment centers enforce a high dependence on the automobile. Suburbanites need their cars to get food from the grocery store, go to work, shop, obtain medical care, and myriad other activities of daily life. Rural Americans are just as dependent on automobiles, if not more so. Their needs are similar to those of suburbanites, and travel distances are greater. To the extent that city dwellers rely on available mass transit, they are less dependent on personal automobiles. But mass transit has been largely supplanted by automobiles, except in a few of our largest cities.

As much as automobiles are important to maintaining our way of life, our very lives are dependent on the trucking industry. The heavy concentration of our population in urban and suburban areas has been enabled by the ability to continuously supply food from farms and processing centers far removed. As we noted above, cities typically have a food supply of only several days available on grocery shelves for their customers.

Replenishment of that food supply depends on a continuous flow of trucks from food processing centers to food distribution centers to warehouses and to grocery stores and restaurants. If urban food supply flow is substantially interrupted for an extended period of time, hunger and mass evacuation, even starvation and anarchy, could result.

Trucks also deliver other essentials. Fuel delivered to metropolitan areas through pipelines is not accessible to the public until it is distributed by tanker trucks to gas stations.

Garbage removal, utility repair operations, fire equipment, and numerous other services are delivered using specially outfitted trucks. Nearly 80 percent of all manufactured goods at some point in the chain from manufacturer to consumer are transported by truck.

The consequences of an EMP attack on the automobile and trucking infrastructures would differ for the first day or so and in the longer term. An EMP attack will certainly immediately disable a portion of the 130 million cars and 90 million trucks in operation in the United States. Vehicles disabled while operating on the road can be expected to cause accidents. With modern traffic patterns, even a very small number of disabled vehicles or accidents can cause debilitating traffic jams. Moreover, failure of electronically based traffic control signals will exacerbate traffic congestion in metropolitan areas.

In the aftermath of an EMP attack that occurs during working hours, with a large number of people taking to the road at the same time to try to get home, we can expect extreme traffic congestion."

EMP Vulnerability of the Automobile and Trucking Infrastructures
The Commission tested the EMP susceptibility of traffic light controllers, automobiles and trucks.

The summary of the tests conclude that traffic light controllers will begin to malfunction following exposure to EMP fields as low as a few kV/m, thereby causing traffic congestion.

For automobiles, approximately 10% of the vehicles on the road will stop, at least temporarily, thereby possibly triggering accidents, as well as congestion, at field levels above 25 kV/m. For vehicles that were turned off during the testing, none suffered serious effects and were able to be started.

Of the trucks that were not running during EMP exposure, none were subsequently affected during the test. Thirteen of the 18 trucks exhibited a response while running. Most seriously, three of the truck motors stopped. Two could be restarted immediately, but one required towing to a garage for repair. The other 10 trucks that responded exhibited relatively minor temporary responses that did not require driver intervention to correct. Five of the 18 trucks tested did not exhibit any anomalous response up to field strengths of approximately 50 kV/m.

In regards to the airline industry, “Although commercial aircraft have proven EM protection against naturally occurring EM environments [such as lightning], we cannot confirm safety of flight following [severe or hostile] EMP exposure. Moreover, if the complex air traffic control system is damaged by EMP, restoration of full services could take months or longer.”

In conclusion, you have a very good chance that should an EMP or severe solar storm occur while you are driving home from work, you will be able to make it home as long as you are careful to avoid collisions. Once home, however, is an entirely different story!

- Kevin Hayden