Ham Radio Conditions/MUF

We are starting our Rocky Mountain Survival Search and Rescue (RMSSAR) net. We are hoping that you will join us internationally on HF, and locally on 2 Meters. Please contact me, W7WWD, at rmssar@gmail.com for information on times and frequencies.

Friday, August 5, 2011

Dutch Oven Cooking Temperature Control

The mysteries of controlling Dutch oven cooking temperature can be understood with a couple of easy to follow guidelines. This article discusses guidelines for temperature control when using charcoal as the heat source in the type of Dutch oven that has three legs on the bottom and a flanged lid for placing coals on top.

You may have seen some very detailed charts of tabulated data that show the number of coals to be place on the top and bottom of an oven for various oven sizes at different desired temperature. Carrying this chart is inconvenient and it always seems to be misplaced at the most inconvenient time. It could be memorized, but 6 different oven sizes and 8 different temperatures is 48 different combinations. If you’re like me, you’d rather save room in your brain for things like the ingredients of what you’re cooking. Fortunately there are guidelines and techniques that eliminate the need to carry charts or memorize a bunch of data points.

RING METHOD

One method that is effective for any size oven is the Ring Method. Under this method, charcoal is placed under the oven a ring pattern. Figures 1 and 2 below show two basic ring patterns. The ring pattern in Figure 1 is called the Solid Ring. The Solid Ring is constructed by arranging the hot charcoal in a ring the same diameter of the bottom of the oven such that each coal is just touching the coal on either side of it. The Spaced Ring shown in Figure 2 is constructed the same way as the solid ring with the exception that every other coal is removed leaving a space the size of a charcoal in between each charcoal.

Most oven recipes call for an oven temperature of 350 degrees. To achieve 350 degrees for any size oven, a spaced ring is constructed under the oven. To determine the number of coals placed on the top of the oven, count the number of coals in the spaced ring under the oven and double that number. This result is the number of coals that are placed on top. Spread the top coals uniformly. The result is 2/3 of the total number of coals will be on the top and 1/3 will be on the bottom.

Using this method, you don’t have to memorize the number of coals. The correct number of coals is easy to determine. Larger ovens with larger diameters require more coals to complete the spaced ring. The smaller diameter ovens require less. If your recipe calls for a higher temperature, to increase the oven temperature, add one coal on the top for every 25 degrees desired. To decrease the oven temperature, remove 1 coal from the top for every 25 degrees required.

A typical charcoal lasts about 30 minutes, and you may want to replace it every 20 minutes.

Another method is the +3 UP /-3 DOWN method. This method works well, but only for a limited range of pot sizes. It is effective on 8, 10 and 12 inch diameter ovens, but is less effective for the larger ovens.
To achieve a 350 degree oven using this method is a simple matter of addition and subtraction. The number of coals placed on top of the oven is the pot diameter plus three, while the number of coals on the bottom of the oven is the pot diameter minus three. For example a 10 in oven would have 7 coals under the oven while 13 coals are placed on top. The coals under the oven are still arranged in the ring pattern with no coals in the center of the ring and the coals on top are spread uniformly across the top.

WEATHER COMPENSATION

Some compensation for weather conditions may be required. On cold days, add a couple of more coals on the top and on a hot day remove a coal or two. Direct sun can also increase the temperature 50 degrees. If it is a windy day, the windy side of the pot will be cooler than the side away from the wind. To compensate for this, just rotate the pot 180 degrees about every 15 or 20 minutes. Also a wind break can be used.

ELIMINATING HOT SPOTS

A hot spot in the bottom center occurs when coals are spread evenly under the oven. This is because those coals on the edge radiate toward the middle adding the heat of those coals located in the center. This results in you cobbler being either done in the middle and raw on the edges, or burnt in the middle and done on the edges. Neither is a desired result. But, by placing coals in a ring then this center hot spot is eliminated and the bottom cooks uniformly.

When baking something such as a pie, cobbler or biscuits another method that produces more even heating can be employed. This trick is to rotate the oven and lid every few minutes. Rotate the entire pot one direction 1/3 turn and the lid the other direction 1/3 turn relative to the pot every 15 minutes. This will make for very even cooking.

BOILING OR FRYING TEMPERATURES

When a sustained moderate boil or faster simmer is required, the solid ring can be used on the bottom.

For a roaring boil, crowd hot coals under the oven as closely as possible.

Deep frying requires a very hot bed of coals underneath. To achieve this, crowd hot coals under the oven as closely as possible. In this situation, counter to the explanation of the center hot spot, the coals in the center will cool quicker because the receive less air than those on the edge. To counter this, every 10 minutes or so, layout another spread of hot coals and move the pot onto that spread and alternate between the two beds of coals.

Copyright © 2008 William res://ietag.dll/#34/#1001); BACKGROUND-REPEAT: repeat-x" tabIndex=0>Bruce Bonnett



Thursday, August 4, 2011

Preparedness Fair

Welcome Back to me! Took a hiatus for two weeks. As you know, I work at Honeyville Farms in Salt Lake City. We are have a Preparedness Fair this weekend. Here are the details. (Address is at the bottom of the post.)

“What’s In Your Ark?” 
Emergency Fair, August 5 & 6th



 Class Schedule Friday:

 9:00 AM          It’s In the Bag – Michelle Snow            Grain Surgery 101 – Chef Tess

10:00 AM         Canning 101 – Melanie Jewkes             Living Better on Less – Glen Weeks

1:00 PM           Mix-A-Meal – Mindy & Lauren            Cooking Without Power – Chef Tess

2:30 PM           Dehydrating – Debbie Kent                   Herb & Spices – Chef Tess

4:00 PM           Canning 101 – Melanie Jewkes             Sanitation – Debbie Kent

5:30 PM           Building Your Ark – Debbie Kent          Bold & Better Bread – Chef Tess

7:00 PM           Convenience Meal Jars – Debbie Kent  Grain Surgery 101 – Chef Tess



Class Schedule Saturday:

9:00 AM          It’s In the Bag – Michelle Snow             Building Your Ark – Debbie Kent

10:00 AM        I Dare you to Eat It! – Leisa Card          Living Better on Less – Glen Weeks

1:00 PM          Bold & Better Bread – Chef Tess           Cooking Without Power – Chef Tess

2:30 PM          Mix-A-Meal – Mindy & Lauren             Convenience Meal Jars – Chef Tess



Free Breakfast Saturday 8 – 10 AM - Pancakes, Eggs, Hashbrowns, Drinks



Follow our Blog for product information and recipes…..honeyvillefarms.blogspot.com

Or visit us at - honeyvillefarms.net for coupons, class and sale information then link directly to our Blog

  

Honeyville Farms – Salt Lake City, Utah                                            

635 North Billy Mitchell Rd – (801) 972-2168                                  

Mon – Fri 9-6    Sat 10-4                                

Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Heat Injuries

Due to the high temperature conditions in many area of our country, I thought that this quick course in heat injuries is appropriate.  Hopefully it will help some of you escape these conditions.  I have had two of the three, Heat Cramps and Heat Exhaustion.  And I can affirm that neither one are pleasant. I am indebted to armystudyguide.com for some of the information, and the format.  Having been an EMT IV/D, during the summer, and especially during summer festivals, these conditions run rampant in the participants.  Oh, the stories I can tell!


Types of Heat Injury:

Heat Cramps
Heat Exhaustion
Heat Stroke

Heat Cramps

Painful cramping of the larger muscle groups
legs, arms, abdomen

Causes

Due to excessive loss of salt through heavy sweating plus several hours of sustained exertion

Acclimatization decreases risk

Treatment

Heat Cramps
Get Patient to a shaded area

Massage arms/legs to increase circulation

0.1% salt solution orally (1/2 tsp salt in 1-qt. Water), sports drink, or salted food (MRE) plus fluid


Heat Exhaustion

Symptoms:

Heavy sweating, headache, light-headed, nausea/vomiting, tingling sensations

Temperature 99-104 F

Cause:

Dehydration plus excessive salt depletion
Treatment:

Get patient to a shaded environment
Loosen clothing

If suspect early heat stroke, treat as such

oral fluids if patient can drink

cold water, 0.1% salt solution, or 6% carbohydrate beverage

1-2 liters over 2-4 hours

EVAC to a treatment facility if available.


Heat Stroke

Symptoms:

Elevated temperature plus central nervous system disturbance.

Absence of sweating is a late finding.

Can begin as heat exhaustion and progress.

This is a dire emergency!

End-organ damage: brain damage, kidney failure, liver failure, blood clotting abnormalities

related to duration of elevated temperature



Treatment of Heat Stroke

ABC

An unconscious patient may vomit and aspirate

IV: no more than 2L unless circulatory collapse (shock)

Lower the body temperature as fast as possible!

Must take all clothes off

Cool water/rubbing alcohol  with fanning...increase evaporation

Ice packs under groin and axilla

EVAC...open doors/windows in helicopter/vehicle
keep cooling to temp 101-102 F.
Ice-water immersion: controversial and unproven.

Risk Factors for Heat Stroke

Dehydration
Respiratory and GI illnessescausing dehydration is most common.

Alcohol use

Laxatives and diuretics

Medications that increase heat production and/or decrease heat loss:
pseudoephedrine, thyroid hormone, cocaine

Medications that decrease sweating:
antihistamines (Benadryl), anti-nausea (meclazine, phenergan)

DietarySupplements:
Ephedrine (MaHuang), caffeine

Control Measures

Water and sports drinks
Salt
Acclimatization

OTSG Guidance for the Field Use of Sports Drinks:
Cool water is usually the best rehydration fluid.
Prolonged training and operational scenarios.
carbohydrates and electrolytes are also required for optimal physical and mental performance
meals and snacks plus water are best

When sports drinks are appropriate:
duration > 6 hours, hot weather, if snacks/meals not consumed
duration > 3 hours, strenuous exercise, if snacks, meals not consumed
duration > 6 hours strenuous exercise, if total food intake is significantly limited
Sports Drink Recommendations:

INGREDIENT Amount per 8 ounces (as served)
Sodium 55-160 mg
Potassium 20-55 mg
Carbohydrate 11-19 gm

Acclimatization:
Physiologic adaptation that occurs in response to heat exposure in a natural environment.
Minimum of 5 days for most people
14 days required for 95% of population to have complete acclimatization.

One can deacclimatize as quickly!

Results of acclimatization:

Sweat threshold at lower temperature
Increased volume of sweat
Decrease in amount to salt secreted in sweat
increased heat dissipation = lower core body temperature

End result: Decreased risk for heat injury!

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Harvesting Seeds

Harvesting Seeds




In my garden this year, I am going to try to save some seeds to plant next year.  I have already harvested the radishs, and the lettuce.  I hope to be able to harvest the seeds from the squash, tomatoes, pumpkins and brocolli.  I found this on a site called "Yougrowgirl.com" and I thought I would share it with you.


There are a variety of reasons for harvesting your own seeds; some personal, some environmental. Perhaps you have a variety that you like and you are concerned that seed companies may discontinue stocking it. You saw some wildflowers while on an outdoor hike that you’d like to grow in your own garden. You have a heritage variety and you want to continue growing it in future years. You want to trade some of your seeds with some of a friend’s seeds, you want to grow organic seeds, or maybe you just want to save money and avoid buying new annuals next year. Whatever the reason, you don’t need to be a botanist or a farmer to do it. If you can grow plants, you can produce your own seeds. There are however, a few things you may want to know before you get started.

Plants either have all the parts to pollinate themselves, (called self-pollinators) or they are aided in accomplishing this by insects, the wind, or human intervention (cross-pollinators). Self-pollinators are commonly referred to as ‘perfect flowers’ as they contain all the parts to successfully pollinate themselves. The comparatively imperfect cross-pollinators produce all the parts to pollinate, but not all in one place. Parts are divided between blooms or are ‘self-incompatible’, identifying their own pollen as foreign material. Pollen must find its way from one plant to the next. This method is preferable for the survival of the species because it ensures that the plants produce genetically diverse seeds– seeds that contain different genetic information or traits then the original plant. This enables the plant to better adapt itself to the environment it is in, or acquire traits that will help it become more disease resistant. Self-pollinators on the other hand, essentially produce clones, which makes them more susceptible to any problems that may arise.

Be aware that if you want cross-pollination to occur in your garden, you need to make your garden favorable to pollinating insects or be prepared to do all the pollinating yourself. Grow plants nearby that attract pollinators–butterfly bush, Queen Anne’s lace, bee balm, salvia, and cleome are a few, and avoid using chemical sprays that will kill all insects both harmful and beneficial.

In some cases you might want to keep cross-pollination from taking place. Plants that are closely related, for example different varieties of melons, will cross-pollinate producing seeds that are a mix of the two varieties. If you want to keep your varieties true, plant similar species of plants on opposite ends of your garden.

Open Pollenated, Heirloom, and Hybrid

Before you decide to save the seeds from a particular plant you will need to know whether they are Open-pollinated, Heirloom or Hybrid. Open-pollinated plants are those pollinated–naturally or through human intervention–by the same species of plant. Heirlooms are older plant varieties that have maintained relatively unchanged in a particular region for several generations, and all are open-pollinated. Hybrids are plants that have been cross-pollinated using two different species of the same genus of plant. They are bred professionally under controlled conditions, to produce certain desirable traits. Grocery store produce is usually hybridized and often bred for mass production or large-scale farming. Many of the characteristics that are bred into these plants, such as thick skins for transport, or high water content for size, are not desirable for small-scale gardening. This is one reason why you may not want to save seeds from store bought produce. Seed packaged for the home gardener by seed companies may also be hybridized. These plants are bred to contain traits that are desirable to the small scale gardener such as colour and taste. However, seeds produced by these hybrids doesn’t guarantee that those desirable traits will be carried over to the next generation. In most cases the such traits may actually disappear entirely after a few generations. Or the seeds may be sterile and won’t produce fruit anyway. Either way, growing seeds from hybrids is a gamble. Checking the seed packet or catalogue of the grower is one way to find out whether seed are hybrids. Packets will often say F1 to indicate hybrids or OP to indicate open-pollinated.

Harvesting Seeds

If this will be your first time saving seeds, start out with some easy plants that flawlessly produce seeds without any intervention. Annuals such as cosmos, marigolds, pansies, corn flowers and many others are some of the easiest. Collect seeds from the highest quality and healthiest plants. A good specimen is disease and pest free, has bright foliage and flowers, and grows vigorously.

Under usual circumstances snipping flower heads off after they are spent (deadheading) is crucial to encouraging a plant to continue producing new flowers. To save seed, leave the flowers on the stem after the flower dies off instead. That way, the plant will start putting its resources into producing seed instead of new flowers.

Before long a seedpod will replace the spent flower. Don’t remove the seed head right away: leave it on the stems as long as possible, letting it ripen within the pod. Seeds are generally ready when the pod turns brown, dries out or cracks open. If you notice that the seed pod is prone to cracking open on it’s own (snapdragons, violas, pansies), attach a lunch-sized paper bag around it using an elastic or string, catching the seeds as they fall. When the seeds are fully ripe, cut the stem at the base of the plant and shake the seed head inside the bag to dislodge the seeds from the casing. If some seeds are lost to the soil they will come up on their own next year. This is called self-seeding, and many annuals reproduce themselves this way.

If the seed heads are not fully dry and ripe when you cut them off, either hang the stems (with the seed cases) or lay them flat to dry on a newspaper or paper towel pad away from direct light. Make sure that all seeds are completely dry before removing them from the pods: if you package them before they are fully dry they will go moldy in storage. This is the simplest way; it’s easier to dry the whole seed head then a bunch of loose seeds. When the pod is dry, extract the seeds by carefully crushing or breaking open the seedpods. Separate crushed debris from the seeds by sifting everything through a fine mesh screen. The debris will fall through and the seeds will remain on top of the screen. Some seeds such as those from marigolds or black-eyed susans can simply be pulled from the seed head.

Seeds from fruits and vegetables should be collected when plants are at their peak, before they are over-ripe and decay has set in. Some vegetables such as beans are the exception and should be harvested when the pods are dry. Seeds from most fruits and vegetables are incased inside a wet environment (the part usually eaten). In the case of very wet pulp such as tomatoes, the seeds can be washed from the pulp and then laid out to dry on newspaper or a screen. The same can be done with pumpkins, squash and other soft pulp vegetables. In the case of harder pulp fruits and vegetables they are simply opened up and the seeds removed manually.

Storing Seeds

The best way to store seeds is to package them in paper envelopes or bags since they allow for good air circulation and don’t sweat. However, any container will do, keeping in mind that humidity and lack of air circulation will cause mold, disease and prompt seeds to germinate prematurely. Film canisters for one aren’t recommended as the plastic promotes humidity and stagnant air. The temperature should be cool to make longer storage possible-refrigerator storage will work if you can’t find a naturally cool place. Be sure to write the date, name of plant and any growing instructions you are aware of on the envelope or package. This will come in handy when using the seeds a year or more later, and will be appreciated if you give the seeds to someone else. It’s worth it (but not necessary) to put a bit of extra effort into the packaging if the seeds are to be given away. Use specialty papers for the envelopes or create fancy labels to mark them. Some envelope and label templates are provided here for you to print out on any paper (or sticker paper for labels that is compatible with your printer type).

Store seeds carefully by placing envelopes inside large glass jars with a bag of silica or powdered milk. These products absorb excess moisture. Reuse the tiny bags of silica gel that come inside new shoes–dry them for a few minutes at a very low temperature in your oven. Alternatively, make a tiny package of powdered milk by pouring a pile into the centre of a piece of breathable fabric or tissue paper. Pull the corners together and close it up with a piece of string or elastic to create a sachet. The best jars for storage are wide mouth mason jars used for canning. They have the proper airtight seal that is essential for long term storage. If you store the jars in a cool, dark place the seeds should last from a year to a few years, depending on the type.

Testing Your Seeds

If you are saving your seeds for extended periods of time, test the seeds before you use them to see if they will still germinate. This is easily done by placing 20 or so seeds (depending on size) onto a half-piece of damp paper towel. Fold it over so that the seeds are covered. Then place it in a plastic baggy with a few pinholes punched into it and set it aside in a dark, warm place. Bear in mind that some seeds need light to germinate and some have other specific requirements-some may need to be soaked first, or may require a certain temperature for germination. Knowing your seeds will help you in this process: however most seeds will do fine with the standard procedure. After a week check to see how many seeds have germinated. Again some seeds will have a longer germination period than others, so if they haven’t germinated by week’s end, wait another week to be certain. If a fair number of seeds have germinated then the seeds are good and can be used with little trouble. If few seeds germinate, increase the number of seeds sown per inch or don’t bother using them at all.

Plants for Beginners

bachelor’s button

nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)

forget-me-not

pansy/viola (Viola x wittrockiana)

marigold (Tangetes)

foxglove (digitalus)

snapdragon (Antirrhinum)

poppy (Papaver)

love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena)

blanket flower (Gaillardia)

columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris)

black-eyed susan (Rudbeckiahirta)

cosmos

zinnia

tomatoes

beans

squash

pumpkin

Monday, August 1, 2011

Some More of those Original Vintage Recipes

Dandelion Wine


The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from the booklet,

Fleischmann's Recipes

1915

Pour one gallon of boiling water over three quarts of dandelion flowers. Lets stand twenty-four hours. Strain and add five pounds of light brown sugar, juice and rind of two lemons, juice and rind of two oranges. Let boil ten minutes and strain. When cold, add half a cake of FLEISCHMANN'S YEAST. Put in crock and let stand until it commences to work. Then bottle and put corks in loose to let it work. In each bottle put one raisin, after it stops working. Cork tight.

Buckwheat Cakes

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

Fleischmann's Recipes

1915

1 cake Fleischmann's Yeast

2 cups lukewarm water

1 cup milk, scalded and cooled

2 tablespoonfuls light brown sugar

2 cups buckwheat flour

1 cup sifted white flour

1-1/2 teaspoonfuls salt

Dissolve yeast and sugar in lukewarm liquid, add buckwheat and white flour gradually, and salt. Beat until smooth. Cover and set aside in warm place, free from draft, to rise - about one hour. When light, stir well and bake on hot griddle.

If wanted for over night, use one-fourth cake of yeast and an extra half teaspoonful of salt. Cover and keep in a cool place.

Mock Turtle Soup

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Home Comfort Range Cook Book

Circa 1900

Boil half a calf's head with the skin on until soft; cut the meat into small pieces; also the tongue; prepare from the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs round balls the size of marbles, and chop up the whites; take of soup stock two quarts; then fry in one ounce of butter a medium-sized onion and add one ounce of flour and brown the same; then add the stock, a teaspoon of Worcestershire sauce, pepper and salt, the juice of one lemon, and let simmer for ten minutes. Pour over the meat and imitation turtle eggs and serve hot, adding the chopped whites of the eggs.

Southern Corn Bread

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

Home Comfort Range Cook Book

Circa 1900

Sift one quart of white corn meal with two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Add three tablespoonfuls of melted lard, salt to taste, three beaten eggs and a pint of milk, or enough to make a thin batter. Beat all very hard for two minutes and bake rather quickly in a hot, well-greased pan in which a little dry meal has been sifted. Eat immediately.

Potatoes au Gratin

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Oklahoma News

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

November 13, 1915

Cut cold boiled potatoes into small dice; enough to fill 2 cups. Put 2 tablespoonfuls of butter into saucepan, melt slowly, and when it is "bubbling" add 1-1/2 tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with 1 tablespoonful of salt and dash of white pepper. Stir until perfectly blended and smooth. Do not brown. Pour on gradually 1 cup of milk, adding 1/3 at a time - stir and beat to avoid lumps. Cook until smooth and glossy. Then add diced potatoes but do not stir, simply heat and turn into buttered baking dish. Cover with fine crumbs and bits of butter and place them under broiler until crumbs are brown. Serve in same dish.

Malted Milk Fudge

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Rains County Leader

Emory, Rains County, Texas

1913

To make malted milk fudge dissolve three cupfuls of malted milk in a cupful of water, add three and one-half pounds of granulated sugar and three cupfuls of hot water. Boil until the syrup spins a substantial thread or forms into a soft ball when dropped into cold water. Beat and cool in the usual way and cut into squares. A handful of nut meats and raisins may be added just before it comes from the fire.

Mutton en Casserole

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Oklahoma News

Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

November 13, 1915

Cut in small pieces 2-1/2 pounds of mutton from breast and neck. Season with salt, dredge with flour and put into casserole or deep baking pan. Peel and slice 1 large pepper into strips and 3 ripe tomatoes; put vegetables around the meat and add water enough to half cover the meat. Cover and let cook 2 hours in oven; add 1/2 cup blanched rice and 1 cup of water and cook another hour; serve in casserole. A fine dish for cold days.

Cherry Jam

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Rains County Leader

Emory, Rains County, Texas

April 4, 1913

Steam, wash and pit the cherries and heat slightly to extract the juice. To each pound of fruit add three-quarters pound of sugar. Bring slowly to a boil and simmer for twenty minutes. Skim, put into jam pots, and at the end of 24 hours cover and put away.

Green Tomato Preserves

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Daily American

Nashville, Davidson County, Tennessee

November 16, 1883

Green tomato preserves are in high favor in certain localities, and are entirely unknown in others. Here is a reliable recipe for making them: Take one peck of hard and unripe tomatoes, scald them by pouring boiling water over them, remove the skin and cut them into thin slices; slice also 6 lemons, the skin of the lemon is to be left upon them, but the bitter seeds must be removed; scatter six pounds of brown sugar over the tomatoes and one heaping tablespoonful of ginger; put into a large kettle and let them boil slowly until they are tender; skim them thoroughly; can just as you do any other preserves.

Oven Roasts

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Rains County Leader

Emory, Rains County, Texas

March 28, 1913

In order to have a juicy tender roast of meat, it should be browned first either in a hot skillet or in an oven which is hot. After it is well browned, cook for the remaining time in a slow oven. This way the juices are kept in the roast and at the same time the meat is made tender.

Caramel Sauce

The following recipe was transcribed ver batim from

The Rains County Leader

Emory, Rains County, Texas

June 6, 1913

Put eight tablespoonfuls of white sugar into a saucepan upon the fire with two tablespoonfuls of water. Stir it constantly with a wooden spoon for three or four minutes until all the water evaporates and watch it carefully till it turns a delicate brown color. In the meantime put into another saucepan twelve ounces of sugar, half the yellow rind of a lemon sliced thin, two inches of stick cinnamon, and a quart of cold water. Bring these gradually to a boil and let them simmer for ten minutes, then add a wine glassful of wine or half as much brandy. Strain the whole into the caramel quickly, mix them together well, and serve the sauce with any pudding desired.

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