Super Efficient Fireplace cont.....

Graphics are located in the attached link

Start-Up Conditioning (after construction):
Allow at least four weeks of 50 degree Fahrenheit (or greater) natural air drying, by opening the air tubes and the firebox door. Use of forced air or controlled low temperature heat will speed up the drying.

CAUTION:
rapid drying before burning may lead to cracking.

After air drying, the first fire should be light wood kindling with about five pounds of wood and enough paper for starting. Increase the fire size by two pounds of wood per day until twenty-five pounds of wood is fired on the tenth day. Then 50 pounds burned slowly on the 11th day will usually complete the conditioning time. This conditioning time is important. All of the construction moisture must be driven from the brick prior to high temperature f~ntgo a void surface cracking from trapped steam. Excessive cracking can allow some smoke to leak through the firewall into the house.

Loading the Wood in the Arebox:

Put a small amount of paper and kindling near the rear of the firebox, then larger kindling, then small logs, and then larger logs. Use a long stick or other device to light the paper at the rear of the firebox. This allows a very hot fire and bums from the rear to the front without burning all of the wood at once. Rear to front
burning will not overload the chimney and air ducts. A masonry stove works best when fired hot, if the chimney draft and air intake continue to provide a clean burning of the fuel. Generally, new wood added to the firebox will burn readily, without kindling wood, even if bnly a few hot coals are visible from the previous charge of fuel.

Operating (Controlling the fire):

The greatest probability for smoke to leak into the room is from 5 to 45 minutes after the fire is started. Do not open the door in this time period. Use the driest wood when starting a fire and do not overload the firebox.

Be certain that the flue and the outside air vents are open. In very tightly constructed houses, a window or I door may need to be opened for a few minutes at start-up when using the air damper on the fire door for start-up combustion air. I Avoid running an oil or a gas furnace when starting the masonry stove. This prevents a reverse flow of gases through the masonry stove to feed the flame on an oil or gas furnace. Anytime the masonry stove door or door damper is open, reverse air flow can occur because a greater negative force is created by the combustion air
demand of a furnace.

A combustion draft fan in an oil furnace creates an even greater negative force.
From a comfort point of view, it is very easy to overfire these masonry stoves. For example, 20 pounds of air dry wood will supply enough energy to heat a well insulated 1000 square foot home for 12-15 hours, even with a zero degree outside temperature. Since a masonry stove produces radiant heat, a person is more comfortable at a lower temperature when one is in the vicinity of the unit. The unit holds heat for a long time, therefore, overfiring should be avoided. Opening a window to cool the house after overheating, is not an efficient use of fuel. After the fire has died down, close any open windows, close the bell damper on the door, and regulate the outside air flow in the outside air intake tubes.

Because the firebox temperature has been measured at 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, even fairly high moisture fuel will normally burn without a serious creosote buildup. However, high moisture content fuel will reduce the heating value of the fuel and therefore should be avoided. Repeated burning of overly wet fuels could possibly I
lead to creosote build up even in these normally creosote free masonry stoves.
The question has arisen about burning coal in a masonry stove, even though they are considered wood burning nits. There is a lack of information regarding the use of coal as a masonry stove fuel, but in one known situation, roof shingles and building felt paper were burned without black smoke emissions or creosote.

On the subject of buming coal, the following advice is offered; use a grate inside the firebox, because coal must have undergrate draft to burn properly. Coal also bums hotter than wood, therefore, use a very small fire to avoid structural damage to the walls of the unit. Do not try to burn coal under any circumstances if the firebox is not made of high quality firebrick and high temperature air setting mortar.

Caution: Portland cement mortar will not stand high temperature and is not to be used with firebrick in the firebox or the first flue run. When buming any fuel besides dry cordwood, burn the fuels only in small quantities and only after the firebox has reached an operating temperature which requires one to two hours of rapid buming.

When the firebox is at full operating temperature and properly supplied with air, all biomass is completely converted to carbon dioxide and water vapor. Both of these gases pass harmlessly through the flue runs. If the firebox is overloaded with high moisture or high energy fuel (tar, glue, etc.), there is a very great chance for overfiring and for creosote deposits in the flue runs and chimney liner, especially at start-up. Incomplete combustion from lack of sufficient air will waste fuel and create carbon monoxide gas.

Overfiring will result in heavy smoke pouring out of the chimney. The fire (as seen through the door damper) will not be a good clear color, but will appear as a dull yellow to orange color. Ideal combustion usually results in blue and bright
yellow flame. DO NOT burn CCA treated, Creosote treated, Penta treated, or painted lumber. Each of these wood preservative treating compounds can create long term health hazards because of toxic gas produced and/or heavy metal deposits from fly ash or flue gases. CCA contains arsenic, paints often contain lead, chrome,
titanium and other undesirable compounds which become a greater hazard when gasified by burning.

Heat Distribution:

The use of a small (3 or 4 inch diameter blade) slow speed fan, placed high on the wall in the same room as the masonry stove, aimed at the floor down a short hallway or through a doorway is a very economical way to distribute heat. Slow speed fans can usually be obtained at specialty stove dealer shops, hardware stores and/or
some electrical supply houses. Non-ducted fan driven air may feel cool, even at 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but it will still warm an adjoining room. It is the evaporation of moisture from your body that makes the warm air feel cool. A forced air furnace usually blows air at temperatures higher than 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

In some residences, a furnace duct system can be utilized to move hot air, if there is a "fan-only" operation in the furnace cycle, however, masonry stoves are best utilized for zone heating (one or two rooms). A masonry stove located in a well insulated basement (preferably insulated on the outside of the walls) is a reasonable way to distribute heat. However, a heating unit located in a non-insulated basement is a very poor way to distribute heat.

Safety:
It is suggested that a minimum clearance of twelve inches from the exterior side wall of the masonry stove (27 x 36 inch exterior size firebox) and a minimum of 18 inches from the rear of the exterior wall to the nearest combustible material be maintained. Larger masonry stoves may require more clearance. Dry wall, or a four
inch brick against a wood stud, is not fireproof construction. If, for any reason this clearance cannot be maintained from the wall surface, it is suggested that a 26 or 28 gauge (light colored) sheet metal heat barrier between the house wall and the exterior masonry stove wall be installed. This heat barrier must have a minimum
one inch opening at the top, bottom, and sides for free air flow. It must be spaced one inch out from the combustible surface, installed with non-flammable spacers, such as metal tubes or ceramic insulators. This should be a sufficient safety factor to allow a six inch distance between the heat shield and the exterior masonry
stove side wall. Do not place the exterior rear wall of the stove closer than nine inches to the properly spaced heat shield. The heat shield should always extend six inches higher than the stove wall, or to within one inch of the ceiling, whichever gives the greatest protection and allows unimpeded air flow. In a horizontal flue run design, the top of the masonry stove is that coolest part of the unit.

Even with this design, maintain at least one inch of air flow space to a combustible ceiling surface. If the unit is not too tall, one extra brick, on top
of the stove overlapping the previous mortar joints will greatly reduce any fire hazard. Temperatures at the top rear of a vertical flue run design masonry stove, are hotter than the same location with a horizontal design flue run. If it is anticipated that the masonry stove top will be very close to the ceiling, install a heat shield with the proper 1 inch spacing for air flow and sufficient spacers to avoid sagging. The fire door should be twenty-four inches from a combustible surface. If installed in an alcove, add 50 percent to all minimum distances as noted
above.

Do not open the door when the fire is within 45 minutes of start up time. Do not open the cleanouts until after all coals and ashes have been removed from the firebox. Always place coals and ashes, even if they feel cool, in a metal container with a metal lid. Remove the ash container from the living quarters and place the metal container on a noncombustible surface. Fires have started as long as seven days later from supposedly cool ashes. Embedded coals within "cool ashes" often give off poisonous carbon monoxide when allowed to remain in the house.

In the event of a chimney fire, have a 25 pound, dry type, fire extinguisher nearby. Call the fire department immediately, evacuate all non-fire fighters from the house. Open the fire door and direct several short bursts from the extinguisher at the base of the fire. Close off all air possible. Do not use water on the firebox walls. Always have a knowledgeable person inspect the chimney after a flue fire. Smoke alarms are excellent low cost insurance; use them for the family's protection.

Installation of Gas Port for Safety:

(On vertical flue stoves, it is a good safety measure to allow a 1 inch by 2 inch gas escape port at the top of the hanging flue run.) To avoid any explosive gas build-up that may arise because of improper stove operation, such as burning the fire too slow, or closing down the stove too soon or improper damper operation.
For placement of gas port see drawings below.

SAWED SINGLE BRICK
GAS PORT
LOCATION

It is best to have the 2 inch line lying on the horizontal. The gas port should be
at the highest point in the hanging flue run.

Builder/Crafter's Confidence:

There is a great deal of information to absorb from the previous pages. The volume of material may discourage some from attempting to construct a masonry stove. Once the materials are located, the greatest obstacle has been removed. Bricklaying is not complicated, just different and slower than carpentry work. Masonry stoves
have been built at many locations around the country by do-it-yourselfers without previous bricklaying experience.

However, it is a feasible idea to have help by setting up your own workshop group, or attend a workshop if one can be located. As in most unfamiliar situations, nothing is accomplished, unless something is started. If you are unsure of your skills, consult a brickmason or other competent crafts person. Locating materials may be difficult, but there are many sources of technical help for design and construction details.

References:
"The Practical Handbook of Concrete and Masonry" by Richard Day from Arco Publishing Company, Inc.; 219
Park Avenue South; New York, New York 10003,

and also

"The Art of Bricklaying by J. Edgar Ray; Charles
A. Bennett Company Publishing, Peoria, Illinois. Your public library often has books on this subject matter.
Materials List:
Sand
gravel
reinforcing rods
tie wire
8 x 8 hardware cloth
Type A-1 portland cement, lime for anti-set compound, fly ash
angle iron or other lintels
clean-out doors, fire door, oven door
fire brick, standard and specialty brick, skew brick
air setting high temperature mortar (approximately 100 pounds)
fire brick grout (for filling and leveling by mixing with firebrick mortar) (grout is finely chipped firebrick)
face brick
anchor bolts
gaskets
flue tile liner
air ducts
air valves
sand screen-home made with 8 x 8 hardware cloth
flue damper (if needed)
2" x 6" forming boards for hearth pad form
12 or 16 penny common nails
roof flashing, roof cement and zinc nails
clean water for mixing cement
ornamental tile and mastic (if desired)
1 x 2 or 1 x 3 lumber (to build sand screen) plus wire for insect screen
reinforcing rods
welded wire fence mesh 2" x 4" and tie wire
doors and cleanouts
air ducts and valve materials
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