SELECTING AND USING ORGANIC FERTILIZERS

SELECTING AND USING ORGANIC FERTILIZERS


INTRODUCTION

Homeowners recognize the need for timely nutrient applications to promote vigorous
plant growth in landscapes and gardens. These nutrients may be supplied by either organic or inorganic fertilizers, or a combination of materials. Many nursery and garden supply stores now stock a wide variety of organic fertilizers. In addition, many organic materials are produced around the home, or can be obtained at little or no cost from livestock operations, municipal green waste collection centers, and local landfills. Virtually any organic material can be used as a fertilizer; however, materials vary considerably in the concentration of plant nutrients they contain and the rate at which these nutrients are released for plant use. Therefore, some organic fertilizers are better for certain situations than others, and different materials need to be applied at different rates to supply the correct amount of plant nutrients.A common misconception is that organic fertilizers are safer for plants and the environment than inorganic (chemical) products. Improper organic fertilizer application can also contribute to surface and ground water pollution, may induce a plant nutrient deficiency or toxicity, or cause salt burn. Properly used, both organic and inorganic fertilizers are safe for plants and the environment. The purpose of this guide is to provide general selection and use information for organic fertilizers.

DETERMINING NUTRIENT NEEDS
Nutrient needs vary widely depending on soil conditions, previous fertilizer and organic matter additions, and the type of plants grown. The best way to determine which nutrients are needed and in what amounts is to test the soil. A soil test (cost: $10.00 to $40.00 per sample) is recommended every two to three years for landscapes and gardens. Sample soils more frequently if you have problems. See your County Extension Agent for instructions on how to collect soil samples and where to send them for analyses.

A soil test report will be accompanied by interpretations and nutrient recommendations for your specific conditionS. Nitrogen is the most common nutrient needed in home landscapes and gardens. Vegetable nitrogen requirements are designed to produce optimum yields in a garden setting.

Plants General requirements Recommendation Ornamentals

Low:............xeriscapes, natural areas.....0 to 1 lb of nitrogen/1000 sq ft
Intermediate:...standard landscapes...........2 lbs of nitrogen/1000 sq ft
High:...........lower beds, new landscapes....2 -4 lbs of nitrogen / 1000 sq ft

Turf*...........low maintenance...............0-1 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
Intermediate maintenance......2-3 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
High maintenance....................4 to 6 lbs of nitrogen/1000 sq ft


Vegetables**
Low: peas, beans. 1 to 2 lbs of nitrogen / 1000 sq ft

Intermediate: asparagus, beet, carrot melon,
cauliflower, broccoli,
Brussels sprout, celery, 2 to 3 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft
pepper,tomato,lettuce
radish,spinach,turnip,

squash,pumpkins

2 High: onion,sweet corn, potato 4 to 6 lbs of nitrogen /1000 sq ft

*Split the total amount of nitrogen into 2 or more separate applications made over the growing eason.To prevent burning do not apply more than 1 ½ pounds of nitrogen/1000 sq feet n a single application.

**For high nitrogen requirement vegetables, apply the intermediate recommendation before lanting, then broadcast or band additional nitrogen after plants are well established (seetext under fertilizer application methods).


SELECTING AN ORGANIC FERTILIZER
The numbers on an organic fertilizer label refer to the concentration (percent) of three major nutrients in the material:

nitrogen (or N),
phosphate (or P2O5),
potassium (potash, orK2O) .

For example, a 6-12-0 fertilizer (bone meal) contains:

6% nitrogen,
12% phosphate (P2O5), and 0% potash (K2O).

One-hundred pounds of this material would contain 6 lbs of nitrogen (100 x 0.06), 12 pounds of phosphate (100 x 0.12) and no potash.

Fertilizer labels on organic products have been standardized so that the concentration of nitrogen, phosphate and potash always appear in thesame order on the front of the package.

Othercommon organic fertilizers are listed below. Many organic fertilizers also contain other nutrients like sulfur, iron, and zinc; however, concentrations of these are usually not given on the label because levels are either too low or too variable to be specified. In addition to supplying nutrients, regular use of organic fertilizers also increases soil organic matter levels which improves soil physical properties like water holding capacity, drainage and tilth (the physical condition of soil related to structure and the ease of tillage).

FERTILIZER RATE CALCULATION

Fertilizer needed = X lbs of nutrient/1000 sq. ft × 1 lb fertilizer/ Y lb nutrient
× Z sq. feet area
.
FERTILIZER APPLICATION METHODS
Organic materials can be broadcast on the surface and tilled or watered into soil, or
applied in a narrow band on or beneath the surface. A common fertilizer spreader will often work well for applying small quantities of organic fertilizer. Two main types of broadcast applicators are available:

the drop spreader and the rotary spreader Most drop spreaders are capable of applying a wide range of rates. however, the path spread is limited to the width of the unit (normally 18 inches to (three feet) rotary spreader may

!!!CAUTION!!!
Many organic materials contain high levels
of salts. These salts will burn plants if
organic materials are over-applied.

Broadcast organic materials in a 5 to 10 foot wide path but with less uniformity and rate control than drop spreaders. If necessary, screen the material before spreading to remove large particles. Spreaders are adjustable for different fertilizer materials and rates of application. The spreader manufacturer will list calibration settings for various inorganic fertilizers. The gardener must calibrate these spreaders for organic fertilizer materials. Adjust the spreader to a relatively high setting. Place two or three pounds of organic material in the hopper and proceed to spread this amount in a continuous straight path. Note the width of the spread path and the distance traveled to broadcast all of the material. Calculate the rate of application and compare this to the rate needed. For example, if your spreader broadcasts a five foot wide path and you traveled 20 feet to empty three pounds of compost, the rate of application would be three pounds per 100 square feet (5 ft by 20 ft), or approximately 30 pounds of compost per 1000 square feet. Compare this to the rate of compost needed and if necessary adjust the spreader and calibrate again.

Because of their relatively low nutrient content, organic fertilizers are applied at much higher rates than inorganic fertilizers. Therefore, even at the highest spreader settings you may have to make two or more passes over an area to apply the required amount of material. Once a spreader is calibrated for a specific nutrient rate and organic fertilizer keep a record of the setting for future use with this material. Avoid streaking caused by skips and overlap by applying one-half of the fertilizer while traveling in one direction and the remaining one-half while traveling in a perpendicular direction. This method of application is especially important for turf fertilization where streaking is
common.

An alternative method of broadcasting large quantities of organic material is to space piles of the material throughout the area and spread the piles out uniformly using a garden or leaf rake.

Banding is a convenient way to make in-season fertilizer applications to high nitrogen requiring vegetables like corn . Use an organic fertilizer with rapid nutrient availability when banding. To band an organic fertilizer, first calculate the amount of material needed for the area as if you were going to broadcast the material. Divide this amount by the number of plant rows in the area to determine the amount of organic fertilizer to apply for each row. Make narrow furrows six to eight inches away from the base of the plants, two to three inches deep. Distribute the organic material evenly in the furrow and cover with soil. Liquid and foliar fertilizer applications can be made with water soluble products like fish emulsion or seaweed extract. There is a potential for leaf burning with liquid applications, so follow product label instructions carefully. Manure or compost tea can also be used as a source of liquid fertilizer. Partially fill a burlap or cloth bag with manure or compost and submerge for several days in a bucket of warm water. The resulting “tea” can be applied directly to the soil or foliage of plants.


Average nutrient concentrations and rates of availability for various organic materials.


Material %Nitrogen %Phosphate %Potash Availability* Notes**
Alfalfa hay 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 slow/mod.
Bone meal 1-6 11-30 0 moderate alkaline
Blood meal 12 1-2 0-1 rapid acidic
Cottonseed meal 6 3 1 slow acidic
Composts 1-3 1-2 1-2 moderate alkaline

Feather meal 12 0 0 moderate
Fish meal 6-12 3-7 2-5 rapid acidic Grass clippings 1-2 0-0.5 1-2 moderate
Hoof/horn meal 12-14 1.5-2 0 moderate alkaline
Kelp 1-1.5 0.5-1 5-10 moderate zinc, iron
Leaves 1 0-0.5 0-0.5 slow
Legumes 2-4 0-0.5 2-3 moderate
Manures: Cattle 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 moderate weed seed
Horse 1-2 0.5-1 1-2 slow weed seed
Swine 2-3 0.5-1 1-2 rapid
Poultry 3-4 1-2 1-2 rapid
Sheep 3-4 0.5-1 2-3 moderate weed seed
Pine needles 0.5 0 1 slow acidic
Sawdust 0-1 0-0.5 0-1 very slow
Sewage sludge 2-6 1-4 0-1 moderate zinc, iron
Seaweed extract 1 2 5 rapid zinc, iron
Straw/corn stalks 0-0.5 0-0.5 1 very slow
Wood ashes 0 1-2 3-7 rapid


*Approximate rate of nutrient release from the material.
**Special properties or characteristics of the material.


Utah State University Extension is an affirmative action/equal employment opportunity employer and educational organization. We offer our programs to persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex,religion, age or disability. Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30,1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Robert L. Gilliland, Vice-President and Director,Cooperative Extension Service, Utah State University, Logan, Utah.

It's Friday, We need a smile!

They had a plan. Do you?

Cooking with your Food Storage: Use It or Lose It!

This is an article by Kim Grant for the Deseret News on March 3, 2011. Great article and I just had to share.

By following prophetic counsel to store food for years, there is shelf after shelf of No. 10 cans to show for it. But one of the toughest hurdles of all for food storage may be knowing how to actually use it when the time comes. It won't help to wait until that first emergency, either, so learn how to use it now so you won't be "losing" it later.

The most important rule is to make sure that there aren't just basics. Don't rely on being able to eat 40 pounds of what. Most stomachs can't tolerate a diet of only one main staple. So even though it's temping to create a food storage supply one item at a time, it's better to keep a balance. For instance, supplement your storage with spices and sweeteners like honey so your taste buds won't get food "fatigue." Also, stock commercial canned items your family already eats.

Creating a cache of food is only the first step--the second is learning how to use it. A few fun ideas include having a "food storage" night once a month to practice cooking and train your family for the unique tastes and textures that cooking with food storage can entail. Another idea is to make it a game. Just type up the names of basic items, cut them up and put them in a bag and let someone choose one. Then go online or reference a food storage cookbook to decide what they can make out of it.

With that in ind, here's a quick and tasty recipe to get you thinking about your food storage in a different, more positive way.

Food Storage Shepherd's Pie

2 cups canned beef chunks
1 can green beans
1 can corn
1 can cream mushroom soup
3 tbsp dried onion flakes
salt and pepper to taste
Potato flakes mixed to consistency with evaporated milk or water

Mix the first five ingredients and place in dutch oven or casserole dish. Top with reconstituted potatoes. Bake at 325 degrees for 30 minutes of until heated throughout.

Tactical Medicine

I think that everyone who thinks of survival has thought many times about what tactical items they may need to give aid to anyone who has been injured in a tramatic situation. It may be in a bug-out-situation, in a patrol, or in a secure retreat location during pandemic, or other hypovolemic situation. Most if any have given any sort of thought on how to perform basic life savinging medical procedures regarding exanguination. Sure a minor surgical kit might be beneficial or Lactated Ringers intravenous solutions would help out. However few individuals actually know how to use these items.

One of the best books for any form of survival medicine would be "Ditch Medicine", available from Paladin Press. Another one is "Emergency War Surgery Handbook". Don't be decieved thinking that these and many other sources of information are concerned with injuries that not only occur in combat situations, but any situation where bodily fluid loss of any kind becomes life threatening. Accidents and injuries happen all of the time.

As a medically and trauma trained individual,I have found that there are 3 basic steps involved in all types of tactical medicine, regardless of injury type, location, or severity. Those are 1. Stop the bleeding, 2. Start the breathing, 3. Check Circulation and 4. Treat for Shock, the silent killer. The first steps are self explanatory. There are many different ways to accomplish this, and be advised this is only one option. The reader should also be advised to become sufficiently TRAINED in these proceedures before attempting them.

If you find yourself in a tactical situation (patrol, under attack, E&E situation)and the injury damages an artery which is spurting blood, or another injury where an extremity is severely damaged and hemoraging one may use a tourniquet such as the Combat Application Tourniquet (CAT) placed approx 2-4 inches above the bleeding site. Every member should have one of these on their body at all times during a Bug Out/Patrol situation, and preferably in a unit standardized location. Doing this keeps the injured individual able to keep their finger on the trigger and remain in the fignt.

“The best preventive medicine is overwhelming firepower.” Contrary to popularly-held beliefs, (which I was originally taught) recent studies from Iraq have shown that tourniquets can be left on for days without irreparable tissue damage occurring below and on the application site. I don't believe that I would leave a tourniquet on for that long but a few hours to return to a safe location, or defeat a hostile threat, will obviously not hurt anything.

Once the firefight stops or the person is evacuated back to a secure location you can begin to treat the wounded area for any other injuries and infection. For example you could now clamp off blood vessels or place wet packed gauze into the site to reinforce any clotting that may or may not have occurred already. Never remove ANY blood stopper or other type bandage that has a clot attached to it, or you will start the bleeding all over again. It is better to leave the original bandage on, until difinitive medical care can be obtained. However, you may have to take the risk of further bleeding if the site has not been cleaned sufficiently, and infection is a real possibility AND Definative Medical Care is not available. If definitive medical attention cannot be obtained with in a few hours you may find yourself fighting tremendeous infection.

After you have dressed the wound you can SLOWLY release the pressure on the tourniquet constantly checking for any uncontrolled bleeding. There are toxic acids in the lower extremety of the location of the TQ, which MUST be released slowly back into the system, or the patient may revert into a septic shock type situation. If the bleeding persists, you then can keep adding your dressings as needed until the bleeding is fully controlled.

If you have been trained, You could also use some suture material to actually tie the vein itself off or clamp it with a hemostat, this will completely stop the bleeding and if done properly will allow for the tourniquet to be removed. This is a temporary solution though. If the artery is ligated, The ara of the ligation should be available for the surgeon to re-anastamose the artery at a later time so ligatures could be placed on both ends of the artery to make it easier for the surgeon to find. This would have no adverse affect on the affected limb as far as circulation is concerned, in the case of a venous ligature because there are usually a number of duplicate veins inside each limb. If this were an artery you could still tie it off, however you would have to be extremely careful that you are 100% certain there is a backup artery available to supply that limb or body part with fresh blood. A simple chart of blood vessels in the human body would be invaluable at this point. Also most times, if the artery is severed across the diameter it will slip up into the surrounding tissue causing difficulty finding it without further trauma. If it is damaged along the lateral length of the artery, it will stay in place. Be carful that you do as little damage to the end of the artery, as damage will have to be removed before reanastamosis is performed. Arteries will only spurt from the proximal end so usually only one clamp is needed to stop the spurting.

Another thing to remember in a survival situation is that no matter how much you clean everything ,with the limited number of supplies you will have on hand you will never be able to obtain 100% sterilization. Do not spend excess time trying to sterilize something when just 15 minutes or less will suffice. but the key here is to be able to get the patient difinative care as soon as possible, and keep the wound as clean as possible in the first place.

Another important item to note is how exactly does one start an intravenous (IV) line? We all realize that IV fluids, especially when someone has been bleeding or is still bleeding, are very important to combat shock. However most people have no idea how to actually start an IV. If you have been trained and practiced this proceedure it is very simple. It would be well to learn this art, before it is needed. One of the most important parts of starting an IV line actually occurs before you think about opening a needle/catheter packet. The size of the canula is very important. The rule of thumb is if there is large volume loss, you must use the largest canula that is available. Many time three or four sites are inserted at one time. The first and most important thing is to verify the expiration date of, and the contents of the bag you are going to use. If it is not crystal clear, don't chance using it, and the expiration date MUST be current.

Assemble everything prior to putting the needle in the arm/leg/forehead/wherever you can. Put the tube on the IV bag/bottle, “charge” the drip chamber by squeezing and releasing it, open the stop gate and drain all of the air out of the line, get tape items ready, place all of these items close to where you plan on inserting the IV line at. The place of administration must be chosen. If large amounts of fluids must be given, a site in the hand or foot is not sufficient. The area in the bend of the elbow is the smallest place available for large amounts of fluids, usually bilaterally. A trained RN or Medic can do cutdowns near the clavicals, but these are not available to the untrained person. Sterile proceedures should be done including sterile gloves and betadine/alcohol washing of the administration site. I prefer the Over-the-needle- catheter type of IV catheters because of the guage of the needle, and they will usually work in this areas. Many smaller people, or if you have to start an IV in the hand, will require a "butterfly" type needle because it is smaller, and will more readily fit into the vein lumen. Using this style of catheter all one must do is insert the needle and catheter combo into the vein by inserting the needle to one side of the vein while using the other hands index finger to stabilize the vein, and keep it from rolling. (THE NEEDLE/CATHETER MUST ALWAYS BE POINTING TOWARD THE HEART IN A VEIN. YOU CANNOT PLACE AN IV INTO AN ARTERY WITHOUT A PRESSURE BAG, AND THEN IT IS USUALLY DONE TO ADMINISTER WHOLE BLOOD PRODUCTS). Then slowly and carefully advance the needle into the side of the vein. When this is accomplished, one will feel a distinct "pop". Advance the catheter into the vein, making sure that it is not lodged against a valve. When the blood appears in the flash chamber the start has usually been acomplished. Then one simply uses one'w index finger to “push” the catheter off the needle and into the vein. You may have to manipulate the catheter insde the vein to give the greatest flow because of the position of the valves. Never, never move the needle in a rotation under the skin, and if you miss the start, you must begin the process all over again with a NEW needle/catheter. Make sure to hold the needle barrel with at least your thumb and middle finger and push only with your pointer finger on the catheter tab. Once this is done and the catheter can move no further into the vein, i.e. it is all the way against the skin. Now is the other tricky part, with your right hand place the IV tubing under your arm and route it so the end just barely dangles in your palm with the tube wrapped above your thumb, take your left hand and apply firm pressure on the vein immediately above the catheter’s termination point. Slowly grasp the needle barrel with your right thumb and forefinger, at the same time grasp the colored plastic part of the catheter with the thumb and forefinger of your left hand while still holding pressure on the vein. Slowly twist the needle barrel to the right until it spins freely, now you can replace the barrel with the tubing connector of the IV line. Start the fluids flowing and you are completely done, except for taping up the site. At least one loop of tape should be wrapped around the catheter connection point and taped to the skin so as to "hold" the catheter "in", and an opsite adhesive bandage should complete cover and seal the site of the IV. If done properly the patient will not lose a single drop of their diminishing blood supply. In patients who are hypovolemic it would be the practice of running the first liter (bag) of Lactated Ringers, Normal Saline or other volume increacing IV solution full steam, wide open also known as bolus. This will rapidly expand the volume inside the blood vessels and allow the system a better chance of returning to normal. Do not however run more than 2 liters bolus unless advised by difinative competent medical control. I typically will estimate blood loss and run that much bolus and then run the rest of the fluid in that bag at [a slower] keep vein open (TKO) rate, which is usually one drop every second or so. I do this as slowly as I can while still keeping the vein open, if vitals start taking a dive I can readily switch back to bolus and give more fluids.

The only thing left to convey is to read and practice (pigs, both live and dead make good substitutes for humans in the present times) and become knowledgeable and comfortable with your medical skills should the need ever arise where you are forced to use them.

PLEASE NOTE:

I am not a licensed medical instructor/nor practicianer, and as such am not advocating or instructing ANYONE in medical proceedures. It is solely an informational article to be used for entertainment purposes.

You should never admisister or start IV's unless you are trained by licensed, competant medical staff, and unless you have standing orders from a medical director and have been trained and certified by your own State or Local Government. These directions in no way what-so-ever suggest that an untrained or unauthorized person can EVER start an IV or administer IV therapy without directions of a Licenced Professional.

Preparing Garden Soil

A good garden soil is deep, loose, fertile, well-drained, near neutral, and has a lot of decayed organic matter. The ideal is seldom available, so the good gardener may have to improve what is at hand! Vegetables and other plants will grow satisfactorily with a wide range of soil types from sand to clay if certain steps are followed for overcoming their basic short-comings.

Utah garden soils are almost all alkaline to some degree. On a scale with pH 7 being
neutral, many vegetables will grow quite well from 6.0 to 8.4. Samples submitted to the USU Soil Testing Lab will determine the pH, salts concentration and level of nutrients. The cost is $10. Sampling information is available from the USU Extension office in your county, or from the Soil Testing Lab, 801-797-2217.

HAULING SOIL
In most instances you are better off to work with the soils that you have. You know
what their problems are. Hauled in soil may not be any better than that in your yard. It could be a source of noxious weeds that you don’t have. If you need to cover a rock or coarse gravel bed or raise the level of a yard area, “fill” may be needed. It may or may not improve an area in which you wish to grow plants.

TIMING
Many gardeners are impatient and damage the soil structure by rushing the season.
Soils that gardeners call “gumbo” or “adobe” are usually a loam type that one tries to prepare too early.

Test this way: take a handful of soil from a 3 inch depth. Squeeze it firmly in the
hand. Drop it on a side-walk. Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill. You’ll get hard clods and preparing a good seedbed will be difficult. As you use soil improving techniques discussed later, you can hasten the gardening time.

MIXING
When the soil has dried sufficiently, spade or rototill to a depth of about 6–8 inches.Garden soil doesn’t need to be “flour-fine.” Leave marble-sized particles and crusting will not be as severe as with over prepared soil. You’ll need to use a rake to pulverize clods. Level and compact the soil for a firm seedbed. The final soil surface should be as level as possible for uniform water penetration.

SOIL IMPROVEMENT
Clay soils have the ability to hold moisture well (often too well) and usually contain more nutrients than light soils. They dry slowly in the spring so early planting of crops is not possible. Water penetration is slow so irrigation water often runs off instead of entering the root zone.

Sandy soils are easy to work but have low water holding capacities, so plants may
suffer from moisture stress in hot weather. Nutrients may be lost as irrigation water moves downward through the soil. These almost opposite drawbacks of both soil types can be corrected by the same technique-adding organic matter. Fine clay particles can be physically separated by coarse organic material. Nutrient and water holding qualities of sandy soils can be increased. As the organic matter breaks down, its components continue to have soil improving characteristics.

Begin by incorporating 2 to 3 inches of organic matter 6 to 8 inches deep. This
application will not last forever and you should plan to add about 2 more inches each year. With heavy soils, you’ll need 2 or 3 years to see much of an improvement. Summer mulching or compost addition will be helpful.

SOURCES OF ORGANIC MATTER
You will need a lot to do the job so look for abundant, inexpensive materials. Leaves
from deciduous trees may be gathered in the fall for composting and/or soil incorporation. Needles from conifer trees may also be used. Bark, sawdust, shavings, and other wood products are less likely to contain weed seeds than are manures. Peatmoss is an excellent material, high in organic matter and somewhat acidic. Cost is a major factor for the quantities needed. Manure may be available and is an excellent source of organic matter. If well handled, it may contain substantial nutrients when used in sufficient quantities. It may also be a source of viable weed seeds that survived the trip through the animal’s digestive tract. Straw, depending on the kind, may also create weed problems. Grass clippings, green manure crops and kitchen vegetable trimmings may be used. These tissues are mostly water, their cells are not mature and don’t contain the lignin and waxes which produce long term soil improvement. Grass clippings are an excellent material to mulch the garden soil surface to reduce weed problems and to conserve moisture. Don’t apply a lot at once. A ½ inch layer will dry out quickly and not get slimy.

ADDING NITROGEN
Large quantities of mature, woody type products such as sawdust, bark, leaves, straw,
etc., will promote nitrogen deficiency in plants because of their high carbon content. Overcome this problem by adding a nitrogen fertilizer when incorporating them into the soil.

Ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen) is readily available and quite inexpensive. Use 1 pound (1 pint) per 100 square feet for each 1 inch of woody mulch mixed with the soil. You may substitute pound of ammonium nitrate (34%) or ½ pound of urea (45%) for the one pound of ammonium sulfate.

Manures vary in their quality. If mixed with large amounts of bedding materials, there may not be enough nitrogen to decompose it and feed the crop. Use one-half the nitrogen rate suggested above. Use this one-half rate when a green manure crop is turned under also. If the manure is quite fresh and/or well protected from leaching by rains and other weather elements it may not need added nitrogen.

TOUGH CLAY SOILS
Although it may be expensive and difficult to apply, a 2-inch layer of sand, in
addition to the organic matter, will help your ability to garden in soils with a high clay content. If sand is used without the organic matter, low grade concrete may be formed with the fine clay particles acting as cement!

SOIL AMENDMENTS
Soil preparation information from more humid areas may suggest time to neutralize
acid soils. Lime is not needed in Utah soils because nearly all have an alkaline reaction. Dolomite is another form of lime. Gypsum is neutral in its reaction and will not acidify alkaline soils. It may be promoted as an “alkali fighter.” That reference is to the high sodium soils or “black alkali” areas where crops grow poorly, if at all. It is not needed on the general range of garden soils in Utah. Don’t expect gypsum to alter the soil structure and improve its workability. Use organic matter to do that.

CHANGING A LAWN TO A GARDEN
It is best not to mix the sod into the soil. A thatch layer can make it difficult to
establish a good seed bed. In addition, grass clumps may sprout and be a serious weed
problem. Sod strippers can be rented that will make grass removal easier and minimize soil losses. A sharpened shovel will cut the sod, but is a great deal of work if the area is large. Skim the sod just below the crown and don’t remove an excessive amount of soil. By saving the stripped sod, you have a good source of compost to add to the garden later. Stack the sod, soil side up with a sprinkling of ammonium sulfate between layers. Cover the whole pile with black plastic to kill the sod and promote decomposition. Once the lawn has been removed, follow the soil preparation steps listed earlier.


Duane Hatch, USU Extension Horticulturist
HORTICULTURE FACT SHEET 01
1990 HG/H 01
Condensed and edited