Potatoes
Posted on January 18, 2012 by Rick Bickling
Overview
The Potato (Solanum tuberosum) is a member of the Nightshade family of plants. The edible part of the potato plant is called a tuber, not a root, and there are many different varieties of red, white, yellow, russet, and even purple or blue potatoes. Potatoes originated in South America, and were grown as a food crop by the Incas as early as 3,000 BC. The Spanish conquistadors brought the potato back to Spain around 1530, and it was introduced to the United States in 1719 when Irish immigrants brought it with them to New Hampshire. French fries were first introduced to the United States when Thomas Jefferson served them in the White House during his presidency in 1804.
Nutrition Facts
Potatoes are nutrient-rich vegetables, full of carbohydrates.
Serving Size: 5 oz. Potato (baked or boiled with skin)
Calories…… 150
Recommended Daily Values:
Vitamin C…. 45%
Potassium…. 21%
Thiamin…… 10%
Niacin……. 8%
Vitamin B6… 14%
Folacin…… 14%
Fiber…….. 3 grams
Fat………. 0 grams
Protein…… 4 grams
They also contain smaller amounts of iron, magnesium, phosphorus, and pantothenic acid.
Soil Preparation
Potatoes grow best in full sun in loose, slightly acidic soil that is well drained. Before planting potatoes, remove all rocks, trash and weeds from the planting area and till the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. To help prevent disease, be sure to practice proper crop rotation by NOT planting potatoes in soil in which potatoes, or any other member of the Nightshade family such as tomatoes, peppers, or eggplant, were grown in the past two years.
Seed Preparation
Unlike most vegetables, potatoes are not grown from seeds but from potatoes that were grown the previous season, seed potatoes. Always use certified disease-free seed potatoes that are free of chemicals. Do not use potatoes from the grocery store for planting.
The “eyes” on the seed potato are actually buds that, when planted, will sprout into new potato plants. Cut large seed potatoes into pieces about the size of an egg, and having at least one good eye. Cut the seed potatoes 5 or 6 days before they are to be planted and let them sit in a cool, well-ventilated area to heal, or cure, in order to help prevent rotting once planted.
Planting
Potatoes are cool-season herbaceous perennials that are grown as an annual. Potatoes can be planted once the soil temperature 5” deep has reached 50 degrees F, or about 3 weeks before the last spring frost. In some areas, a fall crop can be planted about 110 days before the first frost. They grow best when daytime temperatures are around 65 to 70 degrees F.
Photo © Texas AgriLife Extension Service
Plant the seed potato pieces to a depth of 3 inches with the pieces spaced about 10 to 12 inches apart and the eye facing up. Sprouts from the seed potatoes will emerge in 2 to 4 weeks. As the new potato plants grow, regularly pile dirt up around the base of the plants to just below the leaves. This is done because new potatoes only grow in the soil area above the seed potato piece and below the top level of the soil. Be sure to keep the new tubers covered with soil to prevent them from turning green.
Potatoes can be easily grown in raised beds, baskets, barrels, or stacks of old tires where additional soil can be continuously piled up around the plants as they grow. Just be sure that the container is well drained.
Potato plants usually produce flowers and, and sometimes small fruit, that are attractive but should not be eaten.
- See Chart Below for Recommended Varieties -
Fertilizing
Potatoes prefer an acidic soil with a pH between 4.8 and 5.5. Apply a complete 10-20-10 fertilizer to the soil just before planting. After the seed potatoes sprout, fertilize your plants once a week with an application of a balanced fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro Vegetable Food.
Watering
Once planted, water the potatoes regularly to keep the soil evenly moist. Potatoes need at least 1 inch of water per week. Water early in the morning to allow plants to dry quickly and reduce the opportunity for disease infection. Drip irrigation is recommended to allow the water to get right to the growing tubers.
Weed Control
Keep the garden free from weeds, as weeds will compete with the growing potatoes for soil nutrients and water. Do not dig too deep when using a hoe, or pulling weeds to avoid damaging the tubers.
Insects
The lava of the Colorado potato beetle are red, or light orange with two rows of black dots on each side, while the adult has black and yellow stripes. Both are about 3/8 of an inch long and feed on the leaves of the potato plant. The best way to remove them is to hand pick them from the plants.
Aphids are small, whitish insects that may be found in masses on the underside of leaves. If present, leaves become yellow, sticky with honeydew. Hose off underside of leaves to knock off aphids.
Wireworms are thin, about ½ to 1½ inches long, worms with a dark head and tail that feed on the carrot root. Apply a Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) based insecticide to control them.
Leafhoppers are green wedge shaped insects about 1/8 of an inch long. They will suck the juices from leaves causing them to curl upward and turn yellow or brown. They can be hosed off of the plants with a hard stream of water.
Diseases
Diseases and fungus may be a problem for potatoes during cool, wet weather. Check your plants regularly and when needed, treat with Neem oil, sulfur, or an applicable fungicide.
Harvesting
Potatoes will be ready to harvest in about 95 to 110 days, when the tops of the plant begin to die and each potato weighs from 6 to 12 ounces. You can harvest small “new potatoes” during the growing season by carefully digging beside the plant with your fingers. To harvest mature potatoes, use a spading fork to dig under the plant, 8 to 10 inches out from the stem, then pry the entire plant out of the ground and shake off any loose soil.
Storing
Carefully pull the potatoes from the vine and store them in a cool dry place with plenty of air circulation and a temperature of about 40 to 50 degrees F. Do NOT store them in the refrigerator and Do NOT wash them before storing them. Potatoes may be stored in an underground root cellar, and under the right storage conditions will keep for two to three months.
Ham Radio Conditions/MUF
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Thursday, January 19, 2012
Dakota Fire Hole
A little known survival aid related to wilderness fire making skills is the Dakota Fire Hole, also known as the Dakota Fire Pit. This handy device is easy to construct and has marked advantages over other types of camp fire constructs. Once you make a Dakota fire hole and try it out, you may choose to use this method on a regular basis.
making a Dakota Firehole
Making a Dakota Fire Hole
To make a Dakota Fire Hole first remove a plug of soil about 12 inches in diameter and dig down one foot.
Making a Dakota Fire Hole is initially more labor intensive than simply building a fire on the surface of the ground. However the outlay in energy required to make a Dakota fire hole is more than offset by its efficient consumption of fuel; it greatly reduces the amount of firewood required to cook meals, treat water to destroy pathogens, or warm your body.
The Dakota fire hole is a valuable wilderness survival aid because it burns fuel more efficiently, producing hotter fires with less wood. In many areas firewood is scarce or requires a large amount of time and expenditure of energy in foraging to obtain it. Once you build a fire, efforts are better spent attending to your other wilderness survival needs rather than in the constant gathering of firewood
Other advantages of the Dakota fire hole are that it creates a kind of woodstove with a stable platform that is very convenient to cook over.
Should you need to conceal your fire, the fire hole will limit the amount of visible smoke that rises from the fire, since the fuel wood is burning hotter and more efficiently. The pit will also help conceal the light emitted from your fire, especially at night when even a single candle flame can be seen from miles away.
Where to Build a Dakota Fire Hole
Before you start to dig your Dakota fire hole you should scout out an area where soil conditions are conducive to its proper construction. You will want to avoid areas
that are rocky and difficult to dig.
with thick tree roots that require cutting.
that are wet or where a dug hole will fill with water.
With soil conditions such as dry loose sand that will not hold shape as it is dug into.
The usual requirements related to general fire craft and care always apply. As always, treat the wilderness areas you enjoy and count on to survive with respect. Be sure you do not make a Dakota Fire Hole in conditions where out of control wild fires are a possibility and avoid ecologically sensitive areas. Try not to injure the roots of trees and plants.
Follow local ordinances regarding the making of fires; these rules are in place for good reason.
Making a Dakota Fire Hole
Now that we have the introduction taken care of, we can make a Dakota Fire Hole. As shown in the picture, I am using an army folding shovel to dig with. Many wilderness survivors carry a small hand trowel for the burying of human wastes and this also works well. A strong stick or part from your mess kit can also be utilized for digging holes in a pinch; survival experts are experts at innovation so use whatever means you have available.
Making the Fire Pit Chamber
Having selected a likely area in which to dig the fire hole, first remove a plug of soil and plant roots in the form of a circle about 10 or 12 inches in diameter. Continue digging straight down to a depth of about one-foot being sure to save the plug and the soil you removed for replacement later on.
This part of the Dakota fire hole will serve as the main chamber that contains the fire. I prefer to extend the base of the fire chamber outward a couple of inches in all directions so that it can accommodate longer pieces of firewood. This saves time and energy in breaking up firewood into suitable lengths, and also has the effect of allowing larger and therefore hotter fires.
Dakota Firehole Air Channel
Making the Airway
Starting about one-foot away from the edge of the fire pit, dig a 6-inch diameter air tunnel at an angle so that it intersects with the base of the fire pit.The prevailing wind is moving from in back of me in the upper left corner of the picture.
The effect is a jug-shaped hole at the base of which you place firewood. The neck of the jug will serve as a chimney of sorts the function of which is to increase the draft and concentrate the heat of the fire into the small opening.
Making the Fire Hole Airway
Now comes the key component of the Dakota hole that makes this fire making method so effective; the airway.
Before you start on the airway tunnel, determine the general direction of the wind. If the wind is too light to easily ascertain its direction you can often lick a finger and hold it up, being sure it is away from any obstructions. Evaporative cooling on one side or the other of your appendage will be felt from which direction the wind, however light, is blowing. That is the side of the fire hole on which to construct the airway.
Dig a 6-inch diameter airway tunnel starting about one foot away from the edge of the fire hole. Angle its construction so that the tunnel intersects with the base of the fire chamber as shown in the diagram and picture. As when you made the fire hole section, be sure to save the plug containing the vegetation and roots as well as the loose soil you remove.
Using the Dakota Fire Hole
Now that the Dakota Fire Hole is properly constructed, you can partially fill the fire pit chamber with dry combustible kindling materials and light the fire.
To start the fire I am using a FireSteel, the kind Survival Topics highly recommends to be included in every survival kit. These firesteels from FireSteel.com work even when wet and will literally light thousands of fires before wearing out – try doing that with matches or a lighter! We sell high quality Firesteels at the lowest prices in the Survival Supplies section of this website. Help support this website and buy them here – I guarantee a quality product.
fire hole fire starting
Light the Fire
Using a Survival Topics firesteel I am lighting the fire.These firesteels always work, no matter how wet the conditions. Able to start thousands of fires, you can buy your own firesteels at the Survival Topics Survival Supply store.
Once the flame is going strong, drop it into the fire pit so that it catches the kindling on fire; gradually add sticks so that a strong hot fire is maintained.
How a Dakota Fire Hole Works
The accompanying diagram shows the secret of what makes the Dakota Firehole so effective. As the fire burns, the hot air that is created goes up through the fire hole “chimney”. This creates a suction action that forcefully draws air down through the tunnel and into the base of the fire. The draft is increased even more by your having constructed the tunnel on the side from which the prevailing wind is coming.
Acting as a kind of bellows, the flames are continuously fanned and the fire burns hotter and more efficiently than a fire that is simply made on the surface to the ground. Hotter fires mean less smoke. In addition, the heat of the fire is concentrated into an upward direction where you can better capture it for use. This allows you to do more with less wood – an excellent survival fire by any measure.
Fire Hole Improvements
Once you have made the Dakota fire hole you can easily set up a cooking surface for pots and pans by laying several parallel green sticks across the fire pit as show in the picture. Lacking camp cooking gear you can also find a flat rock that only partially covers the hole – and use it as a sort of hobo frying pan.
It is also an easy matter to set a “Y” shaped stick into the ground onto which is rested a green pole with bannock dough, fish, or other outdoor meal. For more information on the wilderness survival staple known as bannock read the Survival Topic on How to Make Bannock.
Dakota Fire Pit Diagram
Dakota Fire Pit Diagram
This is how a Dakota Fire Hole works.As hot air from the fire exits through the top of the fire pit, a suction is created that draws fresh air down through the tunnel and into the base of the fire. This brings in plenty of fresh oxygen for combustion.
A cycle develops: The hotter the fire gets, the more air is drawn down into the fire pit – making the fire hotter.
Campfire Cleanup
When it is time to leave the area, be a responsible wilderness survivor who values the land you need for survival. Fill in the Dakota fire hole with the dirt you removed and saved when you were constructing it. Then replace the cap of vegetation. Doing so serves the double purpose of extinguishing the fire and leaving as little trace of your visit as possible.
In summary, the main advantages of using a Dakota Fire Hole include:
burns hotter
with less fuel
producing less smoke
less light visible to those you do not want to find you
providing a stable cooking surface
easy extinguishing of the fire
and removal of evidence you have been there when you are preparing to leave.
There can be no doubt, making the Dakota Fire Hole one of the best types of survival fires you can make when surviving in the wilderness.
making a Dakota Firehole
Making a Dakota Fire Hole
To make a Dakota Fire Hole first remove a plug of soil about 12 inches in diameter and dig down one foot.
Making a Dakota Fire Hole is initially more labor intensive than simply building a fire on the surface of the ground. However the outlay in energy required to make a Dakota fire hole is more than offset by its efficient consumption of fuel; it greatly reduces the amount of firewood required to cook meals, treat water to destroy pathogens, or warm your body.
The Dakota fire hole is a valuable wilderness survival aid because it burns fuel more efficiently, producing hotter fires with less wood. In many areas firewood is scarce or requires a large amount of time and expenditure of energy in foraging to obtain it. Once you build a fire, efforts are better spent attending to your other wilderness survival needs rather than in the constant gathering of firewood
Other advantages of the Dakota fire hole are that it creates a kind of woodstove with a stable platform that is very convenient to cook over.
Should you need to conceal your fire, the fire hole will limit the amount of visible smoke that rises from the fire, since the fuel wood is burning hotter and more efficiently. The pit will also help conceal the light emitted from your fire, especially at night when even a single candle flame can be seen from miles away.
Where to Build a Dakota Fire Hole
Before you start to dig your Dakota fire hole you should scout out an area where soil conditions are conducive to its proper construction. You will want to avoid areas
that are rocky and difficult to dig.
with thick tree roots that require cutting.
that are wet or where a dug hole will fill with water.
With soil conditions such as dry loose sand that will not hold shape as it is dug into.
The usual requirements related to general fire craft and care always apply. As always, treat the wilderness areas you enjoy and count on to survive with respect. Be sure you do not make a Dakota Fire Hole in conditions where out of control wild fires are a possibility and avoid ecologically sensitive areas. Try not to injure the roots of trees and plants.
Follow local ordinances regarding the making of fires; these rules are in place for good reason.
Making a Dakota Fire Hole
Now that we have the introduction taken care of, we can make a Dakota Fire Hole. As shown in the picture, I am using an army folding shovel to dig with. Many wilderness survivors carry a small hand trowel for the burying of human wastes and this also works well. A strong stick or part from your mess kit can also be utilized for digging holes in a pinch; survival experts are experts at innovation so use whatever means you have available.
Making the Fire Pit Chamber
Having selected a likely area in which to dig the fire hole, first remove a plug of soil and plant roots in the form of a circle about 10 or 12 inches in diameter. Continue digging straight down to a depth of about one-foot being sure to save the plug and the soil you removed for replacement later on.
This part of the Dakota fire hole will serve as the main chamber that contains the fire. I prefer to extend the base of the fire chamber outward a couple of inches in all directions so that it can accommodate longer pieces of firewood. This saves time and energy in breaking up firewood into suitable lengths, and also has the effect of allowing larger and therefore hotter fires.
Dakota Firehole Air Channel
Making the Airway
Starting about one-foot away from the edge of the fire pit, dig a 6-inch diameter air tunnel at an angle so that it intersects with the base of the fire pit.The prevailing wind is moving from in back of me in the upper left corner of the picture.
The effect is a jug-shaped hole at the base of which you place firewood. The neck of the jug will serve as a chimney of sorts the function of which is to increase the draft and concentrate the heat of the fire into the small opening.
Making the Fire Hole Airway
Now comes the key component of the Dakota hole that makes this fire making method so effective; the airway.
Before you start on the airway tunnel, determine the general direction of the wind. If the wind is too light to easily ascertain its direction you can often lick a finger and hold it up, being sure it is away from any obstructions. Evaporative cooling on one side or the other of your appendage will be felt from which direction the wind, however light, is blowing. That is the side of the fire hole on which to construct the airway.
Dig a 6-inch diameter airway tunnel starting about one foot away from the edge of the fire hole. Angle its construction so that the tunnel intersects with the base of the fire chamber as shown in the diagram and picture. As when you made the fire hole section, be sure to save the plug containing the vegetation and roots as well as the loose soil you remove.
Using the Dakota Fire Hole
Now that the Dakota Fire Hole is properly constructed, you can partially fill the fire pit chamber with dry combustible kindling materials and light the fire.
To start the fire I am using a FireSteel, the kind Survival Topics highly recommends to be included in every survival kit. These firesteels from FireSteel.com work even when wet and will literally light thousands of fires before wearing out – try doing that with matches or a lighter! We sell high quality Firesteels at the lowest prices in the Survival Supplies section of this website. Help support this website and buy them here – I guarantee a quality product.
fire hole fire starting
Light the Fire
Using a Survival Topics firesteel I am lighting the fire.These firesteels always work, no matter how wet the conditions. Able to start thousands of fires, you can buy your own firesteels at the Survival Topics Survival Supply store.
Once the flame is going strong, drop it into the fire pit so that it catches the kindling on fire; gradually add sticks so that a strong hot fire is maintained.
How a Dakota Fire Hole Works
The accompanying diagram shows the secret of what makes the Dakota Firehole so effective. As the fire burns, the hot air that is created goes up through the fire hole “chimney”. This creates a suction action that forcefully draws air down through the tunnel and into the base of the fire. The draft is increased even more by your having constructed the tunnel on the side from which the prevailing wind is coming.
Acting as a kind of bellows, the flames are continuously fanned and the fire burns hotter and more efficiently than a fire that is simply made on the surface to the ground. Hotter fires mean less smoke. In addition, the heat of the fire is concentrated into an upward direction where you can better capture it for use. This allows you to do more with less wood – an excellent survival fire by any measure.
Fire Hole Improvements
Once you have made the Dakota fire hole you can easily set up a cooking surface for pots and pans by laying several parallel green sticks across the fire pit as show in the picture. Lacking camp cooking gear you can also find a flat rock that only partially covers the hole – and use it as a sort of hobo frying pan.
It is also an easy matter to set a “Y” shaped stick into the ground onto which is rested a green pole with bannock dough, fish, or other outdoor meal. For more information on the wilderness survival staple known as bannock read the Survival Topic on How to Make Bannock.
Dakota Fire Pit Diagram
Dakota Fire Pit Diagram
This is how a Dakota Fire Hole works.As hot air from the fire exits through the top of the fire pit, a suction is created that draws fresh air down through the tunnel and into the base of the fire. This brings in plenty of fresh oxygen for combustion.
A cycle develops: The hotter the fire gets, the more air is drawn down into the fire pit – making the fire hotter.
Campfire Cleanup
When it is time to leave the area, be a responsible wilderness survivor who values the land you need for survival. Fill in the Dakota fire hole with the dirt you removed and saved when you were constructing it. Then replace the cap of vegetation. Doing so serves the double purpose of extinguishing the fire and leaving as little trace of your visit as possible.
In summary, the main advantages of using a Dakota Fire Hole include:
burns hotter
with less fuel
producing less smoke
less light visible to those you do not want to find you
providing a stable cooking surface
easy extinguishing of the fire
and removal of evidence you have been there when you are preparing to leave.
There can be no doubt, making the Dakota Fire Hole one of the best types of survival fires you can make when surviving in the wilderness.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
Deodorant
Jan 16th, 2012 | By Sarah
Deodorant. It’s the one toiletry most of us won’t do without – after all, who wants to stink? Not even our ancestors put up with nasty body odor. Early commercial deodorants ate through clothes they were so strong, but people enthusiastically put them on to avoid smelling foul all day.
Unfortunately, even modern deodorants still have nasty side effects. Almost all of them contain aluminum, which suppresses perspiration, and parabens, which serve as stabilizers for the formula. Aluminum has been linked to Alzheimer’s and a variety of cancers, including breast cancer, while parabens mimic the effects of estrogen.
That’s no good – and neither is the fact that going off the grid may mean leaving behind drugstore aisles. Thus, it’s a great idea to learn to make your own all-natural deodorant.
Basic Homemade Deodorant
This simple deodorant recipe has been tried by thousands of people who love it. Even better than positive endorsements from real people who run, work outside, and have to deal with teenager funk? A three-month supply for two people costs just $1 to make.
You need:
¼ cup baking soda
¼ cup cornstarch or arrowroot powder (arrowroot is a bit better, but since it’s hard to find in some areas, go with cornstarch if that’s easier)
6 to 8 tablespoons coconut oil (semi-soft state – refrigerate or microwave to adjust)
Put the dry ingredients in a medium-sized mixing bowl and blend them. Add the coconut oil bit by bit, working it into the powder. You should end up with a solid mass that is firm enough to hold a shape but still soft enough to melt into your skin (just like commercial deodorants).
If it’s still too mushy, you can add some additional cornstarch or arrowroot. However, in really warm climates (or at the height of summer), it may never set up, but that’s okay. If it’s really cold where you are it may stay a bit grainy, and that’s okay, too. The anti-bacterial properties of the coconut oil remain whether it’s liquid or solid.
Put the finished mixture into an empty deodorant tube or any small jar with a lid. You just need something with enough room for about a cup of finished mixture and wide enough that you can get your fingers in to scoop it out later.
When you want to apply your deodorant, simply rub it in to your armpits. The mixture will “melt” into your skin. Use a small amount (about a pea-sized glob) to get the job done all day long.
Tips for Homemade Deodorant
Your homemade deodorant does require you to adjust. You won’t smell over time – trust that. However, since it is so different from the chemical commercial deodorants your mind and your body know, there are a few tips you’ll want to keep in mind.
Give your body a week to detox and chemically adapt. You’ve been using aluminum and paraben-packed deodorants for years – the stuff is in your pores, and it needs to seep out. Expect a kind of funky first few days – everybody’s body is different – this is normal and it goes away.
Wait an hour before applying to freshly shaved or waxed armpits. Guys, this is rarely an issue for you, but ladies, this will sting like crazy.
Itchy = use less baking soda. The baking soda can irritate sensitive skin. There are a couple of options to fix this. You can decrease the baking soda in the recipe by one tablespoon and make up the difference with cornstarch or arrowroot. If you used cornstarch originally, swapping to 100 percent arrowroot does help some people. Alternatively, you can add ¼ cup shea butter or cocoa butter to the mix (though this does raise the cost per batch).
Adjust the scent with essential oils. If you miss the scent of commercial deodorant, add a few drops of essential oils to your mix. Tea tree oil is a good choice, since it has anti-bacterial properties, but citrus oils, florals, and mints can all work. I’ve even heard of liquid smoke getting added to win over a reluctant spouse. Basically, when it comes to the smell, get creative – you’re in charge now!
Voila! Deodorant that works and costs pennies compared to the commercial stuff. Now, it’s not an antiperspirant, but many people say they sweat less after going all natural. Skin allergies and sensitivities also tend to fade since you have less chemicals in contact with your body all day.
It’s just smart, practical self-care anyone can try. The recipe takes less than five minutes to put together … get it a go and let me know how it works for you!
http://www.offthegridnews.com/2012/0...own-deodorant/
Deodorant. It’s the one toiletry most of us won’t do without – after all, who wants to stink? Not even our ancestors put up with nasty body odor. Early commercial deodorants ate through clothes they were so strong, but people enthusiastically put them on to avoid smelling foul all day.
Unfortunately, even modern deodorants still have nasty side effects. Almost all of them contain aluminum, which suppresses perspiration, and parabens, which serve as stabilizers for the formula. Aluminum has been linked to Alzheimer’s and a variety of cancers, including breast cancer, while parabens mimic the effects of estrogen.
That’s no good – and neither is the fact that going off the grid may mean leaving behind drugstore aisles. Thus, it’s a great idea to learn to make your own all-natural deodorant.
Basic Homemade Deodorant
This simple deodorant recipe has been tried by thousands of people who love it. Even better than positive endorsements from real people who run, work outside, and have to deal with teenager funk? A three-month supply for two people costs just $1 to make.
You need:
¼ cup baking soda
¼ cup cornstarch or arrowroot powder (arrowroot is a bit better, but since it’s hard to find in some areas, go with cornstarch if that’s easier)
6 to 8 tablespoons coconut oil (semi-soft state – refrigerate or microwave to adjust)
Put the dry ingredients in a medium-sized mixing bowl and blend them. Add the coconut oil bit by bit, working it into the powder. You should end up with a solid mass that is firm enough to hold a shape but still soft enough to melt into your skin (just like commercial deodorants).
If it’s still too mushy, you can add some additional cornstarch or arrowroot. However, in really warm climates (or at the height of summer), it may never set up, but that’s okay. If it’s really cold where you are it may stay a bit grainy, and that’s okay, too. The anti-bacterial properties of the coconut oil remain whether it’s liquid or solid.
Put the finished mixture into an empty deodorant tube or any small jar with a lid. You just need something with enough room for about a cup of finished mixture and wide enough that you can get your fingers in to scoop it out later.
When you want to apply your deodorant, simply rub it in to your armpits. The mixture will “melt” into your skin. Use a small amount (about a pea-sized glob) to get the job done all day long.
Tips for Homemade Deodorant
Your homemade deodorant does require you to adjust. You won’t smell over time – trust that. However, since it is so different from the chemical commercial deodorants your mind and your body know, there are a few tips you’ll want to keep in mind.
Give your body a week to detox and chemically adapt. You’ve been using aluminum and paraben-packed deodorants for years – the stuff is in your pores, and it needs to seep out. Expect a kind of funky first few days – everybody’s body is different – this is normal and it goes away.
Wait an hour before applying to freshly shaved or waxed armpits. Guys, this is rarely an issue for you, but ladies, this will sting like crazy.
Itchy = use less baking soda. The baking soda can irritate sensitive skin. There are a couple of options to fix this. You can decrease the baking soda in the recipe by one tablespoon and make up the difference with cornstarch or arrowroot. If you used cornstarch originally, swapping to 100 percent arrowroot does help some people. Alternatively, you can add ¼ cup shea butter or cocoa butter to the mix (though this does raise the cost per batch).
Adjust the scent with essential oils. If you miss the scent of commercial deodorant, add a few drops of essential oils to your mix. Tea tree oil is a good choice, since it has anti-bacterial properties, but citrus oils, florals, and mints can all work. I’ve even heard of liquid smoke getting added to win over a reluctant spouse. Basically, when it comes to the smell, get creative – you’re in charge now!
Voila! Deodorant that works and costs pennies compared to the commercial stuff. Now, it’s not an antiperspirant, but many people say they sweat less after going all natural. Skin allergies and sensitivities also tend to fade since you have less chemicals in contact with your body all day.
It’s just smart, practical self-care anyone can try. The recipe takes less than five minutes to put together … get it a go and let me know how it works for you!
http://www.offthegridnews.com/2012/0...own-deodorant/
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